Well, unfortunately I'm not 100% sure about that, but you know what I mean...
Life goes at a different speed here and it's seen in a better perspective.
Having fun (in the ocean, in my case) is the priority number one. As Ulli once told me, "everything revolves around surfing".
I wrote that sentence on the wall of the shack where I used to live (grooviest place I've ever lived in). They had to tear it down, but I cut that piece of wall and now it's in my studio. It's not a particularly useful reminder, but I'm attached to it. It's a piece of the shack...
On my way back, as usual, I stopped a day in LA. Dreadlocks Gianfranco (here's where he's from...) took me surfing at Trestle. Here's a few shots of a very fun day.
The first one and the last one it's him.
At one point some huge dolphins (never seen so big... like ten feet or more) showed up in the lineup and shared a few waves with us. So cool. I was in the water and couldn't take photos.
But, check what I saw the day after on Maui's south shore...
Yesterday Hookipa was often head high and super fun. Today smaller, but still fun. A new small NW swell is on its way (3 feet 13 sec from 330 at the NW buoy this afternoon). A south one should arrive Tuesday.
The ocean looks more blue than usual. The temperature feels better than usual. The people is friendlier than usual. I'm happier than usual.
That's what my yearly Italy trip is for, I guess... just a little reminder to have an extreme appreciation for mother nature, this wonderful place and this incredible gift called life that too many people waste running after material things.
So long.
No wait. You guys prolly seen Kauli's push-into-forward loop already.
It's good to be 44 and have the excuse to be too old to try that...
By the way, today I did my answer to that: a new move called spinout-into-catapult. I'll work on the peeing version.
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