Tuesday, June 30, 2009

what a season!

Without any doubt the best start of the summer season since 2001.

Check Pat Caldwell's latest forecast (not that I didn't know that already, but it's comforting to read Uncle Pat's confirmation).
No need to go back to Oahu this week (also because there will be no wind for sailing for the next few days). I may stay in Maui till July 5th, at least. That'll make the 1000 waves target even more challenging... cool!

Yesterday I caught a bunch (feels good not to have to count them, I have to admit...) of playful waist to shoulder high waves on the Lahaina side. Today more of the same. I woke up early, may have to go dawn patrolling.
In the meantime, enjoy a couple of shots from Oahu.

This guy's board (and shorts) look like straight out of Endless summer... classic.


I wish I had a bird's eye view of that... maybe I should mount the GoPro on my carrier pigeon!

Monday, June 29, 2009

Be careful what you wish for...


Dang it. It's gone flat, and there's no ray of hope for 7-10 days. Well, there's definitely hope for me in 7 days. Costa Rica!

Meanwhile, here's an interesting little bunch of profiles about women's surfing in England.

http://http://www.wideworldmag.co.uk/

La Perouse

Well, there's waves in Maui too.

Actually, as I said already, when the buoys are at four feet or more, I think Maui is better than Oahu! This photos are from Sunday, when the buoys were already down to three feet.. not bad.
Unfortunately this morning they are at two feet and that's when Oahu is 100 times better than Maui. I just saw a beautiful shoulder to head high set hitting Ala Moana on the webcam... let's see what kind of waves I'll find on the Lahaina side instead.
In the meantime, enjoy a few pics from La Perouse.

Beutiful top turn on a sweet Kazuma with parabolic stringers on the rails.



A little mini sequence dedicated to Hookipa lifeguard Kaleo Amadeo who, on top of being a super nice guy, is always one of the best surfers out there.
That's the bottom turn.


A little cuttie.


Another bottom turn.


Somewhere in there lies Rich Foster...


This guy had a close encounter with the rocks. Well, at least the ranger helping him seems nice and friendly!

Sunday, June 28, 2009

a break from Oahu

Here's a list of things that happened yesterday (day 24):

- most of Waikiki breaks were still closing out
- the wind was too light at Da Spot (and the forecast calls for even lighter winds: no wavesailing there for a while)
- my body was still sore and in need of rest
- I was missing Maui and my friends



So I got online and bought a ticket to Maui (from where I'm posting now).
That's another great thing about this awesome surf/windsurf trip: I'm not in Indo or Central America or in some other remote spot. I'm a 25 minutes $49 flight from home!
How long am I going to stay in Maui? No idea...
Am I going to blog? No idea...
Am I going to surf? Yes.
Am I going to check out this Paia fest? Possible.
Am I going to attend this Quatro/Goya demo day at Kanaha on July 1st? Maybe (if I'm still here).

In the meantime, enjoy this dramatic sunset from two days ago. Yesterday's was even better, but I was at the airport...

Saturday, June 27, 2009

Today's Thought: How to be Happy




A 72 year old study began all the way back in 1937 when 268 Harvard University sophomores were asked to participate in a study measuring “a formula-some mix of love, work, and adaptation-for a good life.” This study continues to be diligently maintained to this very day.

Number one: Have a Healthy Outlet

If one didn’t have a healthy outlet for their fears, nerves, and struggles, it was only a matter of time before repressed demons erupted to the surface. Develop an outlet…find a sport, commit to helping others, lighten up, and laugh more often.

Number two: Don’t Take Yourself Too Seriously

One can only carry the burden of a big ego and lots of pride for so long before your proverbial knees will buckle.

Number three: Happiness Must be Shared

Those who spent too much alone time ultimately struggled. One can never give enough hugs, say enough "I love you's," and send enough "I miss you's."

This is a photo of my cat, Stimpy. I alternately hate and love him.

oahu day 23 - shiatsu + epic Ala Moana

After 22 days in a row of either surfing and/or windsurfing, I finally had a massage.

I decided to give Shiatsu a try.
Well, it was not even remotely as pleasant as a regular massage, but when I got out of that room, I really felt like a different person. Not necessarily better, but sure different. I felt like the blood was getting to places where it hadn't been in a while...

The therapist strongly recommended to take a day off or two, since the muscles would feel pretty sore before they I could actually feel the advantages of the regained flexibility/softness.
So, believe it or not, yesterday I didn't get in the water! Pretty good timing, I'd say, since the swell was pretty damn big again with most spots in Waikiki closing out.

I went to Ala Moana at sunset and, together with plenty epic rides and barrels that will eventually end up in the Oahu Movie (IF I'm ever going to do it), I shot this clip that, I can guarantee you, will entertain you for a couple of minutes... at least for my colorful language!
Enjoy.

Friday, June 26, 2009

Sated


I think this is what it is. I have been surfing every morning for two, three, four hours, and today the drive to do it seemed a little, well... lackluster. Every day has been so similar, which is weird. There is usually more variation. Every day has been small, and very rideable, but only now and then is there a wave where you can crank a bottom turn and get some speed enough to do something. I'm not complaining, it's summer, after all. I have been dedicating entirely too many hours to perfecting the get to your feet as fast as you can, and cover as much ground as fast as you can before the wave closes out on you.

Today, I was a little, dare I say it, bored.

UNGRATEFUL! That was my deeply ingrained Catholic school upbringing again.

I arrived a little later this morning, letting the tide come. I looked at the new inlet, but it looked weak. The water was beautiful, crystal green, and the waves were groomed clean by the southwest winds. I went back to the north side, where I ran into Brian and Glenn standing on the overlook. They both thought the new inlet looked better, but I wasn't so sure. Down there by the poles was a long way off. It was hard to tell from as far away as we were. I said I would go back to the inlet with them, and we all walked back to the parking lot together.

Once at the inlet it just didn't look all that great, but I paddled out, anyway. But, before I did, Brian had a story to tell me about yesterday, and the woman that had invited him to swim with her. In his eagerness to get down on the beach with her, he had tripped on a rock on the path and nearly broke his toe. I laughed at the picture in my mind of him lying on his back like a turtle, moaning in pain. Way to kill the moment, Brian!

The water was so warm and crystal clear today! But, my first wave felt weak. I did a little turn and it closed out. After about three waves that repeated this theme, I told Glenn I was going back to the other side. Plus, the crowd factor was getting a little too intense by then.

Back on the other side, some guys were already out, three young shredders. We shared the little green peelers for a couple hours, but then I felt the hot sun on my face and thought it wasn't worth the skin cancer, and rode my last one in.

oahu day 22 - and now back to surfing time!

What another gorgeous day.

Beautiful waves all day long in Waikiki. I surfed Publics in the morning with 5 other people (!).
Then I went to check out Da Spot, but the wind wasn't there. They told me that Diamond Head was sailable, but I had so much fun in the morning that I decided to go back to Publics.
Of course, there were now 44 people, but that was ok for two reasons:
1) I was pretty tired so it was good to only paddle for a few waves
2) it was the first time I took out the Sanyo and shot the surfers from the water.

The idea is pretty cool. Catch a wave, wait on the inside, film the others for a while and then paddle out to catch another one. Still there's something that doesn't quite convince me about that camera. I have till July 4th to return it, so I better decide soon what to do with it...
In the meantime, you guys enjoy this little clip. No, I'm not going to blame the camera for the fact that I lost the surfer for a while... I got to learn that I can't zoom so much.


Waves today: 16
Wave count up to date:
windsurfing: 288
surfing: 204
total: 492
average per day: 22.3

Thursday, June 25, 2009

oahu day 21 - secret spot

Scott took me to a secret spot. Amazing how in multi million inhabitants Honolulu you can still find a spot to surf completely alone. Very difficult to access, took us 30 minutes from the car to the waves, which unfortunately weren't epic, but the whole experience was worth it anyway.

This photo is from last week.


Waves weren't great at Da Spot either (also because I got there late with the high tide) and that made for an under the average day (total 14 waves).

Wave count up to date.
windsurfing: 288
surfing: 188
total: 476
average per day: 22.7

Blog author spotted while inspecting his favorite grocery store department. Nothing like the taste of a fresh fruit...

Wednesday, June 24, 2009

oahu day 20 - the start of a new long lasting south swell

South swell is back and the waves at Da Spot were in the head high range. I caught 33 of them in two sessions. In the break I let a sailor called Thomas try my 81l Quatro twinzer.

Here's a couple of shots that should show what he will then say in the lil interview below.


Damn, this place is so bad for photos...




BTW, I'm not sure what model is his sail, but I looked up the weight of a 09 Zone 5.2 and that's 3.93 kilos. The weight of a 4.7 Superfreak ultralight is 3.32 (a 5.3 weights 3.50). That's 600 grams (1.3 pounds). And that in light wind makes a huge difference...

Wave count up to date.
windsurfing: 284
surfing: 178
total: 462
average per day: 23.1

Pat Caldwell is back (thank God for that!) and he says that the weekend swell will not be as big as the one last week. That is a good thing, since most breaks in Waikiki were closing out last week...
Go to go surf!

Glad I brought the fish!


The report sounded pretty bad this morning. But, if there was a little wave happening yesterday, and they were saying today was bigger... hmmm. Turned out to be one of those nice surprises, and I needed one after yesterday.

I stirred up the pot again with my whistle blowing. By days end, I was on the phone to the Superintendent of Accountability for the Duval County School system. This all reiterates why people don't want to get involved. By morning I would have the Principal of a certain Duval County school yelling non-stop in my ear for bringing to light how children at her school were being treated. She didn't like it, and she sure let me know in a non-stop hysterical rant.

It was clear after this actually quite humorous livid rant, that she was only concerned about her position and how this would reflect on her. She began quite politely, explaining why things had appeared the way they had. She never once mentioned one word about the children. When I told her that, it only fed the flames, and I never got to say another word.

To survive in this world, you have to know how to play the game. I lost the guidebook today. But, now, at the very least, the ways of this school will be brought under closer scrutiny. My house will also probably be engulfed in flames. If this blog ends, come look for my charred body.

So, like I said, I needed to go surfing today to clear my head. My reward came early this morning at Matanzas. No one ever even paddled out, until the very end when one guy did and he began hooting up a storm once he saw it. Right by the poles a nice little sandbar was taking the little lines and shaping them into rippable walls. I wasn't sure if I was imagining that the waves were better than they were until that guy took off on one and I saw that yes, they were waist to chest high, green, and glassy despite the light onshores. There would be periods where nothing would come through, and then wham, this great peeling wall would fire off, open for nice bottom turns and off the tops. The fish was so much fun today! I felt like, for a moment at least, I was free, the water was toasty warm, and the waves were actually good. No one else seemed to even know, so it was like a gift, but really, I wonder what the point must have been like?

Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Sometimes you get pulled to your destiny...


That's what happened today, when I pulled Junior out to the break at Matanzas. I thought the waves would be good for her to practice on; one foot at eleven seconds. What I didn't count on was the incredible current we had to deal with to get out to the sandbar! That was an adventure. Once in the water, after a hike out to the point, I could see she was drifting farther and farther away, so I paddled to her and said, "Grab my leash!"

I suppose it was good practice for Costa Rica. I haven't worked that hard in a long, long time. Once we got out there she was beat, so we rode a few and then booked it back inside. We walked back to the poles, where a little wave was forming near the shore. Turns out that was the best spot today. It looked better there than anything I saw on any of the reports. Despite the workout, it was fun, and I know she will sleep well tonight.

Oahu day 19 - more windsurfing

I just discovered another lovely characteristic of Da Spot: it's always better than what it looks like from the beach...
38 waves caught in a single session of two hours, once again most of the time completely alone. That's almost a wave every 3 minutes... quite impressive, considering that I was planing for only 10% of the time!

Didn't take any action shot, so you'll have to live with this couple of ones taken by Sharon on the north shore last Friday.
This guy was bodyboarding Pipe... unbelievable! He only had one arm, but I'm pretty sure he had at least three balls.


Despite the fact that he had both arms still attached, this other guy was only taking photos of Pipe for his blog, instead.


Wave count up to date.
windsurfing: 251
surfing: 178
total: 429
average per day: 22.5

There we go. Once again, the Maui County is trying to enforce restrictive rules to surfing/windsurfing/kitesurfing/any ocean sport schools. Here you'll find a few email addresses where to eventually send your opinion... by Friday 6/26 9am!

Monday, June 22, 2009

Why Racism Persists



Okay, this has nothing whatsoever to do with surfing but this is my spot to rant. Today I helped Junior Devil (A.K.A. librarian at an elementary school that shall remain anonymous). We arrived around 8:15a.m. to begin the tedious job of putting away the many books that were left on the carts at the end of the school year. The school, you see, to put it bluntly as J.D. so aptly did, is a "ghetto school." It lies in a poor neighborhood of downtown Jacksonville. As we rode through the streets, Junior talked about how, when she first was hired here, she was afraid of being shot as she drove these streets on her way to work. I looked at all the houses, most of which had bars on the front doors. It all reminded me of Nicaragua. Last summer, this same time of year, I rode past houses like these. The difference was, in Nicaragua, these houses would have been owned by the wealthier Nicaraguans. The ordinary citizens that I observed while there were lacking in the basics. Most homes I saw had no electricity or indoor plumbing. So, that was one thing.

But, the thing that got to me today was this. Not long after we arrived and began putting all those books away on the shelves, a group of children were ushered into the library by a woman in her early twenties. This was "Summer School," and these kids were all black, as was the woman in charge of them. A TV was blaring cartoons, and they sat at small tables, quietly, and began watching. I began to wonder what activities the woman had planned for them. I was eager to watch the children and listen to them as they played.

But, there was no playing. There was no talking. There was only the stern voice of the woman, telling them there would be no talking. If there was talking, there would be no field trip tomorrow. This was something I would hear over and over again, for the next three hours that I worked putting away books. Those children sat for the entire time, in hard chairs, not talking, not doing anything. The TV was turned off after about 30 minutes.

Now, this is significant, and telling, for so many reasons. As a Sociology major, you can imagine my despair. Those children were forced to sit silently without any explanation given. They were not allowed to play with any of the games that were out in plain view. They were not allowed to read a book, in a library with hundreds of books all around them. They were forced to sit, and to listen to an adult role model who barked at them whenever one of them even whispered something. This role model explained, in improper English, that none of them would be going on the field trip tomorrow, all except for one little boy who was so passive and silent that he became her example of perfection. He was allowed to go play on the computer. The lights were turned off. This continued for three hours.

Someone pounded on the door, at one point, and I let them in. It was a mom, apparently, who was bringing a child in late. I opened the door and smiled at her. She never said a word to me, not even to say thank you.

Now, how can we ever hope to change the world around us when poor children are exposed to things like this day on day out? How can the poor ever hope to learn how to live successfully in a world where they are denied access to the basics of decent human interaction and exchange?

The woman in charge said this: "I don't want you to talk to me, to ask me anything. I want you to sit there quietly until lunch. Do you understand me?"

One child said something under their breath. "What did I tell you?" The woman barked, a threatening cruelty brimming in her voice. One little girl raised her hand, repeating in a soft voice what she had just been told. Something inside me died at that moment.

So, this is what the poor learn. They learn that this is how you treat people. They learn that this is how you act when you are all grown up.

Three hours of their lives were wasted, essentially because this woman learned this lesson so well. Summer school. I looked at them all sitting there, and I wondered how long those three hours must have seemed. When we left for lunch, they were still sitting there, resigned to their fate. And, it was amazing just how well behaved they were. Scared, I guess. Hopeless, perhaps.

It made it even clearer to me today. This is how it happens, and why some people never understand, how they make judgements based solely upon race. The circumstances of our birth determine so much more than we ever realize. But, we can decide to change.

oahu day 18 - it's all about sailing these days

The wind is blowing, the swell is down, the only option is windsurfing. Not that I'm complaining... it's so much fun over here!

With a 9 feet windswell, I'm pretty sure that Hookipa had some waves too, but with gusts over 30 knots, as reported by the "wind yesterday" graph on iWindsurf.com (not sure if you need membership to see that), I'm quite happy to be here and sail these super clean waves with offshore wind instead:


Yesterday Tristan Boxford showed up quite unprepared to go sail (...it wasn't in his plans). He had to borrow one of my extension and mast foot and he had no shorts to wear...


Here's when he hits the water in jeans... if you pump up the volume you may be able to hear a bit of the dialog...
He still ripped, no matter what.


The videographer I'm about to tow out is Bruno, a french windsurfer that injured his ankle on the mountain bike and now is dedicating himself to shooting his friends from the water. Hopefully he will send me some of the clips...

Wave count up to date.
windsurfing: 213
surfing: 178
total: 391
average per day: 21.7

Sunday, June 21, 2009

oahu day 17 - fun windsurfing

The wind is blowing and waist to shoulder high waves at Da Spot offered fun wavesailing conditions.

Provided that one can handle the extreme gusts and holes of the wind and the shallow reefy bottom, that is a perfect place for learning how to ride waves on a different tack. Waves are clean and easy to ready. I'm slowly starting to click into it, but still obviously far from being as good as I am on the other side.
I actually noted one thing that made me come up with a new theory. Being goofy when I surf, is rather a disadvantage than an advantage. Yes, I'm used to riding waves with the right foot forward, but a surfer doesn't have the windsurfers' third leg: the mast.
In other words, I found myself cranking those turns mostly out of the back foot because I know how to do that from surfing, and forget to put pressure on the mast foot to make the whole rail of the board bite in the water.
Anyone has an opinion here?

Another thing I'm wondering is how I will feel once I will go back to riding waves on the other side, after two months here. Will I be better, same or worse?
Well, if I was forced to brush my teeth with my left hand for two months, I'm pretty sure I would still be able to do that with my right hand after all... we'll see.

Anyway, let me post some photos... I must have bored you guys to death already!

I went to check out Diamond Head. What a beautiful view.


But conditions suck! There were two sailors out and a bunch of surfers and I couldn't get any good shot in 45 minutes. Very light on the inside, mushy shifty peaks, really not exciting...
Or maybe I was distracted my the people walking by. This girl was gorgeous.


Da Spot, instead, is the opposite. Ugly to photograph, but a hell lot of fun.


Decent size waves.


Decent size legs.


The beach became an even better place when this lady showed up.


Only in America.


With a total of 28 waves ridden in two sessions, the windsurfing waves have now surpassed the surfing ones. This trend will continue as long as the breezy trades condition will last. Monday night the a new south swell will start hitting, but the big stuff is scheduled towards the end of the week.

Wave count up to date.
windsurfing: 180
surfing: 178
total: 358
average per day: 21

I went out, anyway...


It was a beautiful morning, no one around, light westerlies grooming the mini-peelers, so I said what the heck, I'm all the way down here at Matanzas. Paddle out. The water was crystal clear. I could see a wave way outside, peeling off. I was alone for about 45 minutes, and then a guy paddled out on a longboard and paddling over to me said, "You look like you're having too much fun out here!" Well, I said, if we hadn't had the waves we have had this past week, this would seem pretty good! We shared the peak until the tide started going out, and that as they say was that. It was worth it, for sure. You could tuck into some sections as they peeled on down the line. There can't be a better way to start the day, well, at least in my world.

I had the coolest dream last night. I got a dog! It looked like an Irish Setter, with long red hair. It was pup-sized, but its body seemed fully grown, which is the dream-like part. It was so happy, running around, and I loved that it seemed so happy, and how it made me feel when we looked into each others eyes. Cool.

I have had the best dreams since moving into this house. Not one nightmare. This isn't good for my surrealistic painting, but good for me. My theory? Because this house was once a candy store, I am feeling its psychic energy... all the happy children that passed through its doors, who felt a moment of happiness in a simple dream come true...

Saturday, June 20, 2009

The surf has gone to the dogs...


So, I went biking.

oahu day 16 - north shore

Together with a friend, we went to the north shore and "scored" Pipeline and Sunset breaking (actually even Waimea Bay had waves and three surfers catching them when we drove by!)

Pipe.


Sunset.


A sunset surfer.


BTW, Backyards didn't look windy/good enough, so I decided not to sail there.

I can tell two things for sure about those speedo wearing tourists:
1) they are NOT italians
2) yes, they're gay


Then we stopped by Sandy's and enjoyed watching the body boarders run over each other.


The day ended with a fun sailing session at Da Spot, where I caught 16 waves.
South swell going down a bit, windswell on the rise... I might need to try Diamond Head again.

Wave count up to date.
windsurfing: 152
surfing: 178
total: 330
average per day: 19.4

Links:
- blog reader Scott sent this link to photos of surfing in Munich
- Tristan Boxford sent this other link that announces the creation of the Standup World Tour
- my dad just told me on the phone of this tragic death of a kitesurfer in Italy. Caught by a marine tornado. Looking for an english version of the news, I ran into this other one, just a week old.

Last, but not least, please note the introduction of a new video player on the right, in the middle of the banners. This is a beta version of a service provided by an italian site called www.vvtv.it. I added the best videos I had on youtube and vimeo and now you guys can watch them without having to look for them in the archives. Let me know what you think. I think it's kind of cool...

Friday, June 19, 2009

Perfection is in the eyes...


It may have been small today, but for shape and fun it was hard to beat. I went out early (6:30a.m. again), but a few guys had beat me to it. This was not a good sign, this sign that everyone knew there were waves.

I saw a peak by the south side of the pier, where Karen and I had seen that good spot as we stood up by the seawall after surfing yesterday. We should have been on that peak, we said, but laughed about how we had kept paddling up the beach, seeing a right peeling off just beyond our reach.

There was still a good peak or two coming in today, the buoys were bigger, and before long I saw Junior Devil, right there, paddling over to where I was. How great, I thought, she is so hardcore to paddle out in this and make it to the outside!

"Where is Joe?" she was asking. I couldn't manage to convince him to get out early. I wasn't sure when he might show up, I said, if at all, since I think he may sleep in from the way he acted last night.

Speaking of sleeping in... I now announce my favorite comedy of the year, viewed yesterday... "HANGOVER." I am officially in love with "Fat Jesus." That movie gets two thumbs up, for sure. Ed Helms was too funny. I kept trying to figure out how it would end, because comedies always seem to end so lamely. As soon as I realized how they were going to do it, I smiled. Hoping for the best worked this time. All I can say is "I AM BUYING IT!" as soon as it comes out.

Today, the surf started out disappointing. At higher tide, it looked smaller and the water was a icky shade of sienna. When I saw Junior sitting up on the beach after a while, and saw Karen about to come out, I went in. "Where's Joe?" Karen asked. I tried to inspire him to get that early morning window, I repeated myself, but you can't make someone stoked. We stood there awhile, wondering what to do. It wasn't that great by the pier, I said. Look down there, she said, and I looked to see it was cleaner, smaller, but greener down the beach a bit. We decided to just go on out. It was glassy and offshore, and there were waves.

That turned out to be such a good call. The waves were peeling off in the sunshine, and got greener by the minute. My luck seemed better now, and wave after peeling wave came my way. There were little tubes you could fit right into, clean glassy walls... it reminded me of Playa Grande...

Speaking of Playa Grande... that is the destination for my next surf trip: July 7th, 2009.

To see my friend, Helen, again, will be so fine.

New Zealand can wait until spring.

So, perfection was out there today, even if to most people it was not at all apparent. To them, it must have looked small and unlike anything they imagine on a world standard scale of great surfing. But, being out there with Junior, Karen, and ... look who just paddled out! Mike Nadeau and his girl posse! Tom, too! How cool was that? And, the waves were freakin' funtastic! I love surfing, and how we can be separated by our lives and demands, and then be reunited in the sunshine, laughing together, as if not a minute has passed us by.

oahu day 15 - finally some fun wavesailing

This little video will tell more than my words. Not epic, but fun. Finally fun. The place can get better, I'm sure. But tomorrow there's a NW swell...


It was the first day that I didn't surf in the morning and that made a difference. I was able to have two sailing sessions, the first of which was definitely better because wind and waves were better. Plus after the other guy left, I was completely alone for most of the time. 26 waves, not bad.
The second session was so and so and it even got crowded! (lol)
8 is the highest number of windsurfers I saw in the water at the same time since I got here...
How many people will be sailing Hookipa tomorrow in the late afternoon? Can someone count and let me know?

Wave count up to date.
windsurfing: 136
surfing: 178
total: 314
average per day: 21

PS. This post is dedicated to an american citizen, hoping that it won't hurt him too much...

Thursday, June 18, 2009

Waves!


It wasn't much, but in the grand scheme of things, I hit the jackpot early this morning. I was the first crazy one out, at the crack of dawn, 6:30am. I could see little lines, the tide was full and dropping, so I knew it would start showing more and more. As I approached the seawall, carrying my precious fish, I sighed.

Look at all that trash!

All along the wall lingered assorted crap from the day and evening before, empty beer bottles, plastic containers, cans, what the heck, people!? That was when I saw a sweet man with a bag, picking it all up. I smiled, and told him how I appreciated it. He smiled back, as I apologized for not helping him, but he said no, we each do our part. I ranted for a bit: I'M A VEGETARIAN! I DRIVE A PRIUS!

He laughed, and then told me how he had always remembered something John Glenn, the astronaut, had said when he had seen our planet form space, back in the 60's. John GLenn had returned to outer space in this new century. He said that before, the earth had looked clear and blue, but on this last viewing he had seen the brown, hazy difference.

"We are killing our planet," this man said, and I sighed and agreed. I said that everyday we could at least do something, like he was doing.

We are a scourge upon the planet, a cancer (stealing that line from THE MATRIX).

As I trundled on down the steps, and began waxing up, I looked around the rocks and saw more cans, more crap. How can people actually do this? Just then I saw the man still picking up trash on the seawall. He looked down at me and smiled coyly. "Maybe if I keep working, there might be breakfast in it for me?" That was the closest thing I have had to a date invitation from a man in a long time. But, there were waves to ride. Sorry, dude, but my love is the ocean! I smiled back, pointing to all the trash in between the rocks, "There's a lot more down here!" I suppose I should have just dropped my board and helped, but I have done my share of beach clean-ups, and there will be many more, but right now there was that little window of offshore winds that I had to slip into.

My first wave was good, I was amazed at just how much fun it was! The second one was probably my best one of the day, the fish just flew up and down and all around. Then a guy paddled out near me, then two on the north side of the pier, and then, JACKPOT! Karen paddled out. We had so much fun, sharing waves, watching the dolphins! We even saw them throw a fish into the air, playing with it, or maybe sharing breakfast. That's you and me, I said, and we laughed and high-fived, and surfed until the wind started coming around out of the north.

A good day, we are surfing again!

Oahu day 14 - a bit of frustration

Day started ok with a surf session at those breaks on the Kewalo other side of the Magic Island.

Concessions, I think is the one I surfed. Nothing epic, a bit windy at times, a bit closing out at other times, but if you don't get out there and search, you never never know what you're missing... Quiz: who says that in which awesome windsurfing movie?
Anyway, 8 waves... better than nothing.

In the afternoon I went to da spot and saw another Superfreak!


Went out myself and broke the mast on the first wave. Derigged in the waves, paddled in, noticed a tear in a little panel of the sail (probably hit by the broken mast in the derigging phase)... thank god it's a superfreak, it's still sailable.
Went home to get the backup mast and headed out again around 5.30. The wind on the inside was so freaking light. Took me a while to make it out. In the meantime, the tide was dropping and, even though I was wisely wearing shoes (that I then put in the harness once out), I got a couple of sea urchins souvenirs in my foot.


I finally caught three beautiful waves that closed out in front of me after one turn because I didn't have enough power to make the section, when out of nowhere 6 surfers crowded the lineup.
That was too much to handle for me. It would have been different with a little more power, but I recognized that the conditions were actually better for surfing that windsurfing, so I left the arena to them.

Anticipating questions, I answer that I was out on a 4.7. I have a 5.3 with me too, but with this kind of wind the added power of a bigger sail doesn't help AT ALL. It's only more difficult to uphaul, light wind water start, tack, etc, because it's heavier.

You guys should know that I like light wind, but this is a bit too light. Tomorrow the forecast calls for stronger wind, we'll see. So far, the windsurfing has been a bit frustrating, but I have faith in the future.

The surfing has been great instead, maybe apart from the last few days, when it has been a bit too big. Most breaks start to close out over here when the buoy reads more than 4 feet long period swells. In other words, I'm starting to figure out that in those UNUSUAL conditions, Maui may be even better, because it gets less energy. And when the energy is so much, less is better!
Unfortunately (!!!) the wave forecast calls for more big waves.

Here's this morning's South Pacific weather map. That's already another big swell in a week.


And this is the one forecasted for Sunday 21st: even bigger!


Next weekend is going to massive again and, instead of being excited, I confess that I'm a little concerned. Unless the wind starts cranking from a more favorable ENE-NE direction and then the wave sailing could get epic... so they say.

But whatever, no complains. I'm happy to be here. As that reader reminded me, I could be working or have kids right now...
Plus I can always get on a cheap flight and cruise back home if really necessary!

Wave count up to date.
windsurfing: 103
surfing: 178
total: 281
average per day: 20

Wednesday, June 17, 2009

Flat here, nothing happening...


Meanwhile, in Nicaragua, there is always something.

oahu day 13 - shoulda rested

Today I learned a very basic rule of surfing.

You surf TOO MUCH the day before? You're gonna suck the day after.
Yeah, yesterday I overdid it (12 days in a row of surfing didn't help either) and this morning I should have just rested. But I'm not too good at resting, so I went out anyway and solemnly sucked.

Fortunately the afternoon light wind wave sailing session raised my moral a bit. I'm now really ready for some action with a tiny little bit more wind please (today on the wave the sail almost got backwinded when going down the line). And that's exactly what should happen starting Thursday. Maybe even tomorrow.

The only "problem" is... what am I going to do with that NW swell (that the NOAA keeps calling small, but I think it's going to be a proper one)?
I might need to call my personal Oahu secret information agency to get directions to Backyards!

This is a lil clip from yesterday. A wave caught way on the shoulder (actually at another peak way down the line), not even remotely as good as the waves on the main peak, but that's what I got on the camera. So that's what you get.


Wave count up to date.
windsurfing: 100
surfing: 170
Grand total: 270

PS. A couple of links:
- the Maui Vmax competition started. Info and blog.
- a facebook page for the fans of Windsurfing magazine.

Tuesday, June 16, 2009

Surf Lessons!


Jersey Joe stood up in nearly non-existent waves today. After we did 34 miles on the road bikes in the summer heat, the 78 degree water felt soooo good. My pals helped me out again. Karen let Joe use her 9'10" One World board, and Bruce was like the pit crew, getting the beach bikes set up for us, and making sure we had everything we needed. Lucky me! Lucky Joe! It was so small out there today, but he had fun learning how to maneuver that yellow submarine around, and he actually had more fun than he thought he was going to. His words, not mine. I forgot that he was so ticklish, and when I was shoving him into a wave I inadvertently grabbed his feet, and made him fall off the board from laughing. Surf instructions from a clown.

oahu day 12 - Rice Bowls... not!

Wow, it was big today!

Probably the biggest since I'm here. 5 feet and 15 seconds at the west buoy, that's a lot for a south swell.

I went to check a spot called Rice Bowls, allegedly a hollow and fast wave when it works.
First, just to warm up, I set on the next break over where there were far less people and it was far less consistent, but when the set arrived it was pretty intense.
I managed to make a couple of drops and that felt good. But then it happened that I had to duck dive under a big one that was doing the barrel right where I was. I pushed the 6.10 as hard as I could under the water and I think I went down two-three feet at least. It was like those two-three feet didn't offer any protection at all. The heavy lip hit me hard on the head, like I never was hit before.
Actually, now that I think about it, those two-three feet probably saved my neck!
Anyway, after having been punished and humbled, I observed a guy catching a bomb and standing tall in the tube at Rice Bowls and wisely decided that that was going to be a bit too much for me.

So I paddled down to Publics.
What? Only three people out! Mmm... there must be something wrong...
And in fact there was a simple problem: it was too big for that spot. You had to sit inside and wait for a peeling one, but once in a while a cleanup close out set would push you all the way inside. Geez, so much work to paddle out again!
In two hours I caught a total of four waves and probably paddled half of the time.

In the afternoon, the wind was too light to sail and I went to check China Walls. This guy was taking off so close to the rocks that most of the times you couldn't even see him! That's why I don't have any of those rides... but I have this other one. Beautiful colors, that place is magic.


Yeah, so beautiful that I couldn't resist and, despite the tiredness, I had to jump in the water again. Didn't do too much, but it was worth it...
I got a little clip of a wave caught on the inside shoulder, but no time to upload it. Check back later. Exhausted. Need some sleep.

Monday, June 15, 2009

The weather maps are saying...


Hot today with maybe a spritz of rain.

It won't be long, right?


They are pushing the wave prediction to Thursday, with Friday the peak of it. Please, please, please make it so, wave gods. And, I know it's summer, so we really shouldn't expect much...

But, some of us always seem to.

oahu day 11 - one wave at China Walls



11th day in a row of awesome surfing.

More to come with a healthy mix of windsurfing action too in the second half of the week.
And, after I checked the north pacific weather map, even an out of season NW swell on Thursday... you guys ready for Pipeline?

Sunday, June 14, 2009

Best CD of 2009?




This CD makes waiting for waves bearable ... the latest release from Phoenix called Wolfgang Amadeus Phoenix.

Saturday, June 13, 2009

Oahu day 10 - Relentless energy from the South Pacific.

That was the title of an email from the Surfline forecaster to inform me that the day that I will finally give my abused body a rest is far to come.
Bloddy hell, how was my timing in coming to Oahu?

Between sessions, right out of the water at Waikiki, I ran into the annual parade for the King Kamehameha day.

Here's a few misses.




Beautiful flowers!


Not sure what takes to be "Chinese model mother of the year", but sure Mrs Yun Soong Jim knows.


Meanwhile, even the usually beginner friendly spots of Queens and Canoes were seeing some serious action.




I can tell two things for sure about those speedo wearing tourists:
1) they are italians
2) they're not gay


Wait, I'll take that back.


Click on this one. Both ladies and gents will appreciate it... BTW, isn't she lovely?


Kobe Bryant.


If I'm ever going to do a movie about this trip, Dancing Auntie will have a whole chapter. She was hysterical.


Session report.
Today yet another day of waves. Marcio slept in late and I opted for Publics again. I like that wave, because even though it can get big (plenty overhead sets today), the drop is steep only at the very moment you catch it and then it gets immediately mellow. That helps me overcome the fear or dropping in big waves with the 6.10.
Here's the two main areas where I already improved my shortboard surfing in 10 days:
1) paddling: I paddle way stronger and can catch waves that I would normally miss.
2) duck diving: damn, am I practicing that or what? I'm way more confident to make it even under big ones, still sometimes I relax and fuck up...
Areas where I haven't improved yet, but I'm now conscious I need to improve (which
is already an improvement, if you think about it:
1) generating speed by doing turns. Got to get those rails engaged at every single moment. Just cruising up high on the wave to make the sections is more of a longboard thing.
2) bottom turns, top turns, cut backs... in other words all turns.
3) reading the waves

In the afternoon I went to Da Spot and since the waves were bigger, I decided to take the 81l out instead of the Sea Lion.
Man, that was a lot of work for those four waves... uphauling was the only option, that's how light it was.

Wave count up to date.
windsurfing: 86
surfing: 146
Grand total: 232

"GOOD-EPIC SURF: 4-7 ft. - shoulder high to 2 ft. overhead occasionally 8 ft. and good-epic conditions."... that's the surfline forecast for the next four days...

You got to be kidding me! I'm having a blast you guys...

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