It may have been small today, but for shape and fun it was hard to beat. I went out early (6:30a.m. again), but a few guys had beat me to it. This was not a good sign, this sign that everyone knew there were waves.
I saw a peak by the south side of the pier, where Karen and I had seen that good spot as we stood up by the seawall after surfing yesterday. We should have been on that peak, we said, but laughed about how we had kept paddling up the beach, seeing a right peeling off just beyond our reach.
There was still a good peak or two coming in today, the buoys were bigger, and before long I saw Junior Devil, right there, paddling over to where I was. How great, I thought, she is so hardcore to paddle out in this and make it to the outside!
"Where is Joe?" she was asking. I couldn't manage to convince him to get out early. I wasn't sure when he might show up, I said, if at all, since I think he may sleep in from the way he acted last night.
Speaking of sleeping in... I now announce my favorite comedy of the year, viewed yesterday... "HANGOVER." I am officially in love with "Fat Jesus." That movie gets two thumbs up, for sure. Ed Helms was too funny. I kept trying to figure out how it would end, because comedies always seem to end so lamely. As soon as I realized how they were going to do it, I smiled. Hoping for the best worked this time. All I can say is "I AM BUYING IT!" as soon as it comes out.
Today, the surf started out disappointing. At higher tide, it looked smaller and the water was a icky shade of sienna. When I saw Junior sitting up on the beach after a while, and saw Karen about to come out, I went in. "Where's Joe?" Karen asked. I tried to inspire him to get that early morning window, I repeated myself, but you can't make someone stoked. We stood there awhile, wondering what to do. It wasn't that great by the pier, I said. Look down there, she said, and I looked to see it was cleaner, smaller, but greener down the beach a bit. We decided to just go on out. It was glassy and offshore, and there were waves.
That turned out to be such a good call. The waves were peeling off in the sunshine, and got greener by the minute. My luck seemed better now, and wave after peeling wave came my way. There were little tubes you could fit right into, clean glassy walls... it reminded me of Playa Grande...
Speaking of Playa Grande... that is the destination for my next surf trip: July 7th, 2009.
To see my friend, Helen, again, will be so fine.
New Zealand can wait until spring.
So, perfection was out there today, even if to most people it was not at all apparent. To them, it must have looked small and unlike anything they imagine on a world standard scale of great surfing. But, being out there with Junior, Karen, and ... look who just paddled out! Mike Nadeau and his girl posse! Tom, too! How cool was that? And, the waves were freakin' funtastic! I love surfing, and how we can be separated by our lives and demands, and then be reunited in the sunshine, laughing together, as if not a minute has passed us by.
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