That's because in the morning I was able to pick up my gear that arrived safe and sound at the harbor. BTW, the number of cubic feet (hence dollars I had to pay) was only 58... cheap!!
Problem was that it was in one of the containers of the upper row and I had to climb up there to get it... just kidding.
Ray's truck happily loaded.
Got the gear, drove back home, put fins in and drove to Diamond Head.
The ocean from the cliff is absolutely gorgeous. The inside shows the reef with its canyons and coral heads, while on the outside the blue of the water is truly something.
The waves didn't look all that good though and I ventured out a bit sceptical...
Well, 6 waves in one hour don't quite make an epic session, do they?
The wind on the inside was superlight, the waves were choppy, mushy and weak.
Took me forever to slog upwind to a break with no surfers where right while doing my very first turn I figured that it was actually a blessing that the waves were mushy and weak... god, do I suck on this other tack or what?!
This guy, instead, made it look pretty good.
He must be a local.
He must be a local too.
The sunset surf session at Ala Moana (not Bowls, one of those breaks in between...) was much better. Kinda small, but super clean and very, very rippable.
I caught 17 waves in 1 hour and 24 minutes (yes, I have a wave counting device...). Considering that I got out around 6.20, I must have caught the last one around 8.
Sunset time today was 7.11, but the moon was out early and almost full and the lights of the city made for a surreal magic atmosphere.
I guess the feeling of connecting with nature gets amplified by the vision of the contrasting opposite.
I had a similar moment later on.
While in line at Safeway, in fact, I noticed that none of the food items that both the persons in front and behind me were about to buy were natural products available as is in nature. They only bought boxes of processed food with weird names. That made my salad taste even better!
The only thing that bugs me in that photo, CLEARLY is the plastic container. Guess what, I'll wash it and and use it again for the rest of the 2 months... I may even bring it back with me to Maui!
I would have many more things to write about my first impressions, but I need to rest. Tomorrow the wind should be stronger and I'll check out other spots.
I'll post more soon. You guys keep the count of the waves for me, ok?
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