Sated

I think this is what it is. I have been surfing every morning for two, three, four hours, and today the drive to do it seemed a little, well... lackluster. Every day has been so similar, which is weird. There is usually more variation. Every day has been small, and very rideable, but only now and then is there a wave where you can crank a bottom turn and get some speed enough to do something. I'm not complaining, it's summer, after all. I have been dedicating entirely too many hours to perfecting the get to your feet as fast as you can, and cover as much ground as fast as you can before the wave closes out on you.

Today, I was a little, dare I say it, bored.

UNGRATEFUL! That was my deeply ingrained Catholic school upbringing again.

I arrived a little later this morning, letting the tide come. I looked at the new inlet, but it looked weak. The water was beautiful, crystal green, and the waves were groomed clean by the southwest winds. I went back to the north side, where I ran into Brian and Glenn standing on the overlook. They both thought the new inlet looked better, but I wasn't so sure. Down there by the poles was a long way off. It was hard to tell from as far away as we were. I said I would go back to the inlet with them, and we all walked back to the parking lot together.

Once at the inlet it just didn't look all that great, but I paddled out, anyway. But, before I did, Brian had a story to tell me about yesterday, and the woman that had invited him to swim with her. In his eagerness to get down on the beach with her, he had tripped on a rock on the path and nearly broke his toe. I laughed at the picture in my mind of him lying on his back like a turtle, moaning in pain. Way to kill the moment, Brian!

The water was so warm and crystal clear today! But, my first wave felt weak. I did a little turn and it closed out. After about three waves that repeated this theme, I told Glenn I was going back to the other side. Plus, the crowd factor was getting a little too intense by then.

Back on the other side, some guys were already out, three young shredders. We shared the little green peelers for a couple hours, but then I felt the hot sun on my face and thought it wasn't worth the skin cancer, and rode my last one in.