Oahu day 4 - a wave at Publics

Have you read yesterday's post?

Well, I went back to Publics today.
The one in the video is a wave of the first kind: "sluggish and somewhat slow"...
Imagine how good it is when it's of the second kind: "a fright train that takes the surfer on a board and body challenging speed run, and brings an occasional tube section"... like the one I had yesterday!
Just turn the volume down, because I had no time to edit it.
Here's another problem I'm experiencing in Oahu: I don't have enough time to do all the things I would like to do!

For example, today I had two surf and one windsurf sessions (and a nap). And now it's almost 11pm, I should be sleeping, but I'm posting... I just love blogging!
You guys so lucky...

Enjoy the video. Welcome to the Oahu south shore...


PS. This post is dedicated to the Gopro guys, who with their amazing toy make things like this possible.
It's also dedicated to Keola Rapoza (who I never met, but he's the shaper of my 8.6) for the same exact reason.

PPS. Today's wave count.
windsurfing: 19
surfing: 12
total of the day: 31
Totals up to date.
windsurfing: 57
surfing: 65
Grand total: 122

PPPS. Life is fantastic.

PPPPS. This blog rocks.

WAAAAAIT! I forgot I got some photos too taken with the regular Gopro.

Nose riding on a two feet over head high beauty. (click on the photo, it's worth it)


My new surfing buddies.


PPPPPS. From the NOAA site: Outlook through Saturday Jun 13: current south swell will peak through Monday. A larger south swell expected Tuesday night will slowly decline through the rest of the week. This second swell is expected to generate surf at or above the 8-foot threshold.

Oh - my - god.