Anyway, no complaints. It was totally worth it... because before it happened I caught four waves like these...
The toughest part was the drop: because of the offshore wind, you could only catch a wave when it was steep... really steep. But once caught, the same offshore wind kept the face pretty open.
This is a local guy that lives in my neighborhood. Great surfer and nice guy...
When I first saw this photo, I thought:"No way! This guy took off switched stance... no way! Who the hell is he, Jamie O'Brien?". Then I saw more photos of him, and he always has the leash on the front foot. So, my guess is that he had a bad cut or something on the back ankle and prefered to wear the leash on the front foot...
Smoked too much in the parking before getting in the water, is another guess... ;-)
And this is the last section where on some waves you could get barreled.
And that's how I got hurt. I saw that section walling up in front of me and I thought about going for it. But at the very last moment I figured that it would have not been big enough for me to squeeze in and I cut towards the beach (that'll be the rocks). Big mistake: I was caught by the heavy free falling lip (felt like a ton a water) and in the wipeout I cut my foot with a fin. Next time, I'll have to go for it, no matter if I make it or not. That's what all the more experienced surfers I asked told me. I can't wait to try next time on a wave like that again...
Surfing, simply the best thing on earth.
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