Friday, June 27, 2008

Your wish has been granted ... long live Jambi!


Okay, here is a shot of my friend, Woody. I saw him at the pier because ... there were waves again today! I went to the crossovers first, but it was already a bit crowded and didn't look as magical as yesterday morning, so I decided to go check Matanzas. Andy was there, at the overlook, with Rylan, and we saw the rights way out the back that looked promising. We paddled out, but it had been deceiving. The current was ripping so hard you had to paddle your butt off, and constantly, just to stay in one place. My wish for riding the Firewire was granted yesterday, but today it was more exercise than fun out there, paddling and paddling. I said the heck with this, Andy, I'm going to the pier! He said he was coming with me. So, off we went, and that was a good call because it was peeling off and way easy to just catch one and just ride and ride. I had postponed the surf lesson with Ryan until ten, so I had more time to get the tide right today. I raced in at five til ten, met them on the beach, and we headed out for an endurance-building 90 minute session of walking against the raging current, while holding onto the board for him and manuvering him into the wave. What a workout, but all this is priming me for the long paddle outs to points and size in Nicaragua that I have not been able to experience for quite some time. Ryan was the hero today. Every time he caught a wave, he got better and better, until by the end, he was standing up and actually adjusting his rashguard! His brother, Kyle, hooted for him and hugged him. His mom was so proud. And, the look on Ryan's face was the best thing of all today. Well, that and getting paid to get him hooked on the coolest sport ever.

No comments:

Post a Comment

AddThis

Bookmark and Share
 

######