Summer

Yesterday, I gave Hope another surf lesson.

It is such a joy to see the look of joy on her face after she catches a wave! She is so fearless and stoked! Her mom, Tara, wanted to try it, and it is clear she gets her skills from her mom. Tara stood up nearly every single time, too! The waves were just big enough.

Today, Junior and I were on the scene early. I was anticipating so much more than was there. Listening to the buoys all night did not bear the fruit I imagined. Two feet at eight seconds, all night long. When I arrived at the beach this morning, I was determined to ride the 5'6" despite the size of the waves. It still amazes me, how that little rocket ship catches the mushiest mush and still flies. I so wanted to take off and do something, but the waves would just lump up and disappear.

The janitors came out on their SUPs, then the long boarders, and my heart sank. The tide dropped, and I told Junior I couldn't take it anymore, the people everywhere in the water, the SUPs, the people everywhere on the beach!

We headed for sanctuary. South, to Matanzas.

Once there, on the south side at the end of the road, we found it. The water was green and no one was around. I couldn't believe no one was even surfing the south side at all. It was small, but I have seen twenty people out in less. We traversed the rocks, crossed the river, and the beach opened up, empty and clean. The waves were small, but my first one was worth the whole drive. It was a right that peeled off, green, chest high, and fast. A few more came through, but nothing like that one, and then the lowering tide sucked it all away. It was just as well, as an annoying jack hammer started pile-driving a concrete piling into the ground just beyond, by the bridge. Bang! Bang! Bang!

It was like we were in a different world down there. The only people we could see were two lovers, standing in the shallows. The landscape was so serene, the water clear and sparkling. It took all the stress away. Well, if you could block out the jack hammering.