Oh my. What a gift today was. I didn't see it coming at all. I listened to the weather cube from the comfort of my bed early in the morning, and then the phone rang. It was Andy. "I'm lookin' at it right now, and I don't know if it'll be worth going to secret spot. It looks pretty small. I don't wanna get skunked again." Yeah, alright, I say, I will go check Crossovers and call you back. He says he will check Matanzas. As I get into the car, Bob calls. "I'm here at Crossovers, and it's not even breaking. No one is out, and it's kinda just closing out on the beach." "Yeah, alright," I say,"I'm going to go to Matanzas. Andy is on his way there." Bob says he will meet us there. As I am driving, I realize I have forgotten my bottle of rinse water. Then I remember how I dropped my sunscreen on the ground somewhere yesterday, the one I got in Nicaragua, and forgot to get another bottle. That is when I know the waves will be good. It's when you prepare, have everything ready, and are up and on it, that it all backfires on your little plans. So, when I get to the overlook and see the aquamarine glassy lines peeling off, I have a near heart attack because I am off all freaking day and nothing stands in my way for once EXCEPT for the fact that my friends have told me the waves are small and so I left my FIREWIRE at home (!) and brought the funshape. That sealed the deal then, the waves had to be good. It turns out it didn't matter, because the board I had with me brought me bliss and happiness. That is the most fun day of surfing since Bertha! There were so many people on the main break that I skipped it, and went a few yards south where I saw these four shredders ripping on the left there. Andy and Bob were out in the mass of people, while no one was riding the right down the beach. That's my spot, I say. Oh, man, what fun that was! I had that right all to myself for about an hour. Just bowling ripable lines, green and sparkling. Tubes, off the tops, cutbacks ... what do you want to do? I felt so good out there today. Mickey paddled up, and we talked about biking. Tom came out, and we had so much fun talking about life and sharing waves. I paddled over to Flea, and asked where Frieda was. "She had to go to Melborne on a sales run," he says - BUMMMER! I hope she caught some down there, I say. There is no way it could have been as good as it was at Matanzas today. Four hours later, I am walking back to my car thinking, this was such a gift. And it came just under the wire, on this, the last day of my summer vacation. So ironic, and so very, very appreciated. Thank you, creepy angels.
No comments:
Post a Comment