The wave intervals moved up to ten seconds around 3am, surprise! Happy Birhtday to me! The creepy angels said, "Let's give her a half hour of fun, she needs a break." I was at Crossovers before the sun was even glowing on the horizon. Ugh, the tide was too high. This was eating into my time. I had it planned out so well, too. I would have an hour in the water, out there by 6:30am and on the beach at 7:30 to be at work by 8am. By the time I got to the pier, my time was shaved down to 45 minutes, but no matter, it was probably the best minutes of the entire day from what I heard and saw from the reports. There was this beautiful glassy peak that kept wedging up on the northside, and it was so freaky ... I paddled out on my new board and from the first wave, I was out of my mind with happiness. The board felt so good under my feet, loose and light. The waves were bigger than they had looked from shore, and they kept coming. Every time I caught one and paddled back out, I just turned around and caught another. Another guy came out, then Steve, then another guy, and then it just seemed to stop. That was fine with me, because by then my time was up. I had so many waves in that 45 minutes that I didn't mind. I did pout a little, thinking I should just take the day off, but I had too much reponsibility today to even think that thought for more than one second. So, I raced up to the restroom to change and then, oops, realized I forgot my hairbrush - DOH! That was the kink in my perfect plan. So, I went into work looking like ... I just came in from surfing. Donna let me borrow her comb after I begged her, since it was my birthday. Then all day I watched the flag ... OFFSHORE winds all day, until the moment I left my post, and there it came, whoosh, onshore! I paddled out anyway at Crossovers, and caught some fun ones, but it was nothing like this morning...
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