Saturday, January 24, 2009

The warmth returns...but where are the waves?


There has been frost on the ground for the past several mornings. There goes the water temps. I heard it was 58 degrees this morning. Ten more degrees and we will hit the record. So, after work today, I noticed the wind was still offshore and the air was almost warm. I raced to the overlook to find the sea smooth and blue-green. There was a hint of a swell, and about eight people were trundling down the stairs carrying boards. How did this spot get so popular? I stared out at the sea, watching some guys trying to catch something, but the tide had already filled in too much. I decided to go check the pier. This was a good call, and I almost didn't do it thinking about all the tourists in town. But when I got there, and looked on the south side, I could see that same little right peeling off in the sunshine, the one I have been noticing the past few days. A little spit of sand has developed off 16th street, creating a nice little sandbar, like a right point, sort of. No one was on it. I couldn't believe it, really. This spot usually has the most people. I changed into my wetsuit and raced out there. Surprisingly the water wasn't bad. It sure didn't feel like it was in the 50's to me. It was so clear, sparkling, and green in the sunshine. I had some fun for awhile, riding those little lines peeling off, and had it all to myself. Tourists were all over the beach, like summer. Everyone has been inside so long with the last cold snap. I can't blame them. Everyone was trying to grab a little piece of summer before the next cold front, which is swiftly approaching. Afterwards, I felt so good. Everything is better again, after surfing. Now if only we could get a real swell...

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