I was up at dawn and off to Crossovers. Ugh, the tide was too high, of course! Andy called from the pier, and said it was a little fat, but it looked worth it. It took me no time to get there, and not much more time to realize that spring is definitely here. Everywhere I looked, there was someone getting ready to go out. Oh heck, everyone has been waiting forever just like me. Mark was talking about how he had been sick, and we compared stories.
Soon, Andy, Mark, Mikey N., and I were paddling out into the green water, slowly warming, under sunny skies, and I felt alive again. From the first wave, I remembered why I love that Randy French model. The waves weren't all time, but there were enough surprise sneaker sets to keep us motivated and alert. One wave, in fact, was better than good. It jumped up outside, where I had decided to wait. I had seen it stack up every fifteen minutes or so. Some guy sitting out there would stroke and miss it every time. I decided to go out the back and give it a shot. Soon, one came to me, I stroked, and heard two guys shout, YEAH! as I took off. Oh, what fun that one was. Late drop, green wall, and the board flew. The wind was southwest (offshore) for most of it, but by the end it was taking a decided turn to the south. I was glad, because I kept thinking about Bruce taking the time to help Karen open the cafe so that I could stay out longer and surf. That's the kind of friends they are. She will have it tomorrow, when it is straight offshore. And, me? I will be concocting some excuse, and they are wearing out, as to why I might be late to work in the morning.
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