Bye, Bye, Bill...

There's still a little swell left, but not even close to the last two days. Andy and I met at the pier early, as Mark was going out. It just didn't look inspiring after what we've seen, and Andy couldn't decide what to do. The pier looked okay, there were some sets coming in on the end of it, but the crowds were already gathering. I saw Matt Middlestat, and we talked awhile. I decided to surf with Karen and Bruce in the park, and then ride down to the point. That way, if Mark wanted to go there, he and Andy could go on the jet ski, since I had my turn last time.

Karen and Bruce were loading up when I got there, and we headed into the park, along with Brie and Giovanni. The tide was coming in, and the waves were backing off a bit. I caught a few, but they were slow. We are so spoiled. The best part of this day was when I came in. Giovanni had been busy playing with his shark in the sand when I paddled out. But, now, from up the beach, I could see this tiny figure running with lightning speed toward me, because his mom had said, "Here comes Nancy!" That made my day, seeing that little guy running to greet me! I love that kid. The exuberance, and love for life and everyone in it, is all full tilt go right now. If only we could keep that innocence and love of life... it was such a great moment. I told him he could grow up to be a racer, that I had never seen a kid run so fast. He smiled so sweetly at me. It was gold.

Then I rode the bike to the point, and caught some fun ones with Steve C., Chris R. and about thirty other guys. What a scene it was down there. Three boats, and what? There's Andy's jet ski! He decided to come here after all! He paddled over, and we caught some more. It seemed better in the beginning. There were some good tubey waves walling up, with some real juice. But, it wasn't epic point, by any means. It was, though, much better than anywhere else on that stretch of beach. Then, at eleven AM, high tide, it turned onshore. I got on the bike and rode back. Later, Karen would go back out and stay out for something like five hours! We were all searching for her. I had to go into work, and when I got home Bruce was worried, called me, and the manhunt began. I called Andy, who was at Matanzas, but he was the only one surfing there. Bruce found her at 16th. She had simply lost track of time. Winner of the longest session this week!

I am holding off with the posting of a photo for today until I see what shots Dave got at the point. Andy thinks he may have a good left on film...