After work surfing, I like this habit. I get off work, walk home, throw the Firewire in the car, and head to tenth street. Seems like a pretty good life to me! Only today, it got so crowded! It wasn't at first, but after three waves, I looked all around me, and I was surrounded by twenty aggro twenty year olds taking every little wave that heaved its chest high self up. It sure was fun until I decided I just couldn't deal with it anymore. I really had some fun ones. It was so unlikely, too. I paddled out thinking it looked shapeless and more choppy than even yesterday, but wave after wave seemed to come to me, and they even peeled off! I was stoked. It was so unexpected. I just hope it lasts for tomorrow - the weekend! I want some morning glass...
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