Saturday, September 19, 2009

Surf after work..




I paddled out after work in absolute crap. I had to. There are few things that help the weary soul like surfing. It really didn't help much. The waves were so frustrating, closing out and weak. But to see Chris Ropero out there, smiling, and just ripping in the junk surf, made me feel a little better. He said hi to me, and said he wasn't getting any waves. Sure, Chris, you suck. Check out this sequence of him from August 23rd, the aftermath of Hurricane Bill. I recall him saying, that day, too, "I'm just not getting any waves." I love this guy. So humble, always positive, and a total ripper.

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