Sunday, September 20, 2009

Sunday Morning Fun!


I dusted off the Firewire today, and it felt like falling in love again.

That board is just so... lively, and quick. I want to stay on this one for awhile. The fish diverted me for a spell, but today I felt like my turns were so effortless!

When I got to the beach early this morning, it really didn't look that inspiring at first. Two guys were just sitting there on the beach, looking at it with their boards beside them. This morning was all I had, so I just paddled out. The water is so warm! It felt like a bath. And, once out there, I saw it was bigger and better than it looked. After I caught two waves, those guys paddled out. I didn't have a lot of time this morning, so I couldn't go surf with Andy and Mark at the inlet. But, tenth street was beyond good enough

I heard some guy with a deep voice, and knew it was Woody. He had his "Rooster Club" up and out there this morning. They are a fun bunch of guys. He told me that he realized they were all just sitting on their computers in the mornings, so he challenged them to get out there and go surfing instead. We all caught some fun ones, and they were hooting and having a great time, saying what I had been thinking, that it was bigger and better than it looked from shore.

After an hour and a half, it was off to Jacksonville for me, to watch one of my students play hockey. I talked to Andy on the way, and he said he and Mark had a blast at Matanzas on Mark's new 6'1" Placebo Vietnamese model. I gotta try it. Andy said he loved it. He cannot get another new board or he will end up in divorce court.

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