Day three

January 29, 2010...

I was up at dawn. Everyone else seemed to be asleep. I was having the strangest dream, about the X-Files, and work...

As soon as Andy got up, we were in the car and on the way to Maria's. There is only one car in the lot. The waves look smaller. We decide to go check Domes. It is a total scene, fifteen guys out. It sure looks bigger! It's head high and glassy, the trades are light. We decided to check a spot Andy had spied from the cliff, just before the whale watch spot. What a great call that was. Andy, I thank you.

Only one guy was out as we clamored down the jungle slope to the brown sand beach below. He was riding a green fish and making it look fun. We learned, later, from a local that the spot is called "Indicators." It was like a mini-point resembling one of my most favorite waves in the world, a right point on an island that exists off the northern coast of South America. What fun we had! The green-blue walls were glassy and warm, and the cliff kept the trade winds at bay so the faces stayed glassy. This was what I had been dreaming about...

A guy who lives there paddled out, and he talked about a big swell we had missed, but he said he couldn't even surf it due to the 300 people out at Tres Palmas. He decided to wait until the next day, but the crowds were just as bad. That was when I realized that this was a lucky break, that we hadn't hit a big swell. It was fun-sized, and uncrowded, and just what we needed.

After five guys paddled out a couple hours later, we decided to go get breakfast. The English Rose, again. Ahhh ... heaven on a plate.

Then we headed to "Steps" to snorkel. I kept watching a little perfect right rifle off the reef, and decided to try to ride it. I don't think I have ever surfed over a more dangerous-looking, shallow reef. As I rode a little peeler, I watched the reef whizzing past a foot below the surface, and realized that if I fell I would get a serious thrashing. But, it was so gorgeous... the blue sky, the light offshore wind, the crystal clear shimmering water. This spot felt so magical. We all said that. On my last wave, my leash wrapped around my feet but I hung on. Andy stood on the steps, his hands in the air, hooting for me!

Afterwards, we went back to Indicators but it was more windblown and about six guys were on it. We drove to Domes, right around the corner, but it was crazy crowded there. We all sat on the beach and watched the show. There were photographers shooting, and I went over to one that I thought might be Val, but turns out it wasn't. It was someone doing an art project, and she filled me in on it all. I went back to sit with Deb, Ryan, and Andy, and we watched the circus show. People who could barely surf were going over the falls left and right amid rippers pulling double 360 airs. It was something to see, and very entertaining. Ryan and I created things out of junk we found on the beach, while more and more surfers kept coming. It reminded me of the beach at Pipeline. Andy was considering going out. I said good luck if you do.

That night, we found a great local restaurant, The Tropical, in RIncon, with local food like beans and rice and plantains. We had so much fun, and Andy said he was glad we had all gone together which was like gold to me. After dinner, we went to a local grocery store, and laughed at everything we saw. Then, it was back to the room to watch the surf film, "The Drifter." Heavy eyelids... the hum of the AC... the beds are so comfy...