More excitement...

Okay, this is officially the craziest surf trip ever. Today when we got up and saw that the waves were still giagantic and unsurfable, we never expected to end up NOT being able to surf third beach in Manuel Antonio because surfing there is now officially banned!

It seemed like the perfect idea, big swell, right direction, and third beach needs all that to light up. It is truly one of the most fun right points in Costa Rica.
So, we get to the park, walk the walk, and then get that bomb dropped on us. No reason given. "You can take your surfboards inside the park, but you cannot ride them." Perfect! What genius came up with that one? Just more nonsense.

Disappointed, we walked to the main beach where there are touristas everywhere and the beach break is wonky and booming. Andy has to get in the water, but I walk way down to the rock in search of a better break and a place away from the crowds. I never find much, but paddle out anyway, and catch a few mediochre waves.

Then, as I get back to the beach where Andy is surfing, mayhem unfolds. Big sets are creating a strong rip current and suddenly psople are yelling and Andy is attempting to save people! People are gathering, people are drifting out to sea, there goes some guy with a longboard. Where are the lifeguards? This is insane! They eventually save everyone, but one girl faints when she gets to shore and they lay her on the beach. People gather to gawk. Jesus! An ambulance trundles down onto the beach and they take the girl away. Meanwhile, a few feet away from the mess a guy is selling shave ice! On the way home, we stopped at another beach to check out the waves and we saw two kids drifting out in the lineup. Oh,no, not another rescue! Is this another bad episode of Baywatch? I tell Andy that I will get my board ready, but he is so exhausted and cursing stupid people for going out in that mess, and we just watch until we are sure they are out of danger. Let's just not check any more beaches today, I say.

Today, as we drove out of the driveway to go to Boca Barranca, I told Andy I was a bit hestitant to find out what today might bring after what has gone on the last two days.

But, today was most excellent.

We got to Boca Barranca and paddled out in overhead plus winding walls with light offshores and green, warm water. I got the wave of the day again, so said a Brazilian dude who saw that crazy big steep wall that I chattered down at warp speed, hanging on for dear life. It was hilarious, and I started laughing so hard I nearly choked afterwards. Right after my Chitty Chitty Bang Bang, Andy caught one huge wave right in front of me, and I was hooting my head off as I looked up at that beast and saw him dropping in. What fun we had today. Only FOUR of us in the water! We realized that the magic hours are between 9 and noon, when the dawn patrol crowd leaves and the third crew hits. We felt like we won the gold ring today...