Waves, please stop!

Surf check: Still huge, but now it is poop brown, rained all night. We leave for Boca...

Scott from LA came with us today. Boca looked smaller, but once we got out, there were still some sets that had us hooting and scratching for the horizon. Will it ever end? The waves just keep coming without a break. It is simply big or bigger.

There is a tree in the lineup today, and it looks spooky. Suddenly, we realize it is just us out! What is going on? We hear that it is the economy. No one is here. Hey, what am I doing here? I don't even have a job. It is all insane. But, we are here, and we are surfing.

Afterwards, we go to Caldera and find a jetty break that looks promising to Andy. I think it looks marginal. I am jaded.

The next day, we take Deb and Ryan with us to Caldera. It was so stupid from the get go. I could only see a big close out, but Andy wanted to try it. It was a great bodyboard wave. It wedged up in a nice peaky bowl, but it was too short and most of them closed out. The body boarders were charging! Andy had fun, but all I saw was close-outs. I left, and went over to the left I saw yesterday. That was a waste, too, just a mush ball - and then the wind came onshore. Oh, well, some days you win, some days you lose.

The good part was seeing Glenn today. We went to his house, bearing gifts of beans that I made and a casserole Deb made. Ryan had so much fun helping me sort the beans the other night. That was so cool how much fun he had. He wanted to sort more last night. How cool is that?

At first, we were afraid to see Glenn. When he came walking out of his house, it was a bit unsettling. His nose was taped up. He looked as if he had been in a heavy bar fight. One eye was swollen shut, and both eyes were black and blue. But, he was smiling and joking and happy as he ever was. Lindsey showed us the X-rays, and you could see how his nose bone has been completely chipped off. They formed a new one with plastic, and he still has the end of his nose. It was so good to see him again. All he wanted to know was what waves we had surfed. He told us that there have been a multitude of injuries over the last few days. Jim Hogan has a gigantic bruise from the top of his hip down to his thigh. Another guy got stitches in the leg, and some girl got stitches in her chin, all locals.

It's hard not to feel spooked.

Mark arrived this evening. The swell has been rising again, all day, just insane. We stood on the beach at sunset, just pointing to the two block long waves that are too big to even ride. Mark is worried about paddling out tomorrow, but we put his fears to rest. Well, we tried to pretend we had it wired at Boca to make him feel better. Ha ha. Shiver. More to come...