Up at dawn again. The buoys are four feet at eleven seconds, so I know there is still surf. Man, am I sore. I feel rather uninspired this morning, so saturated with it all the last couple days. And, I know it has dropped, one can't expect waves like yesterday to last long on the Atlantic side. I do not want to ride anything smaller than what we had yesterday! The Firewire likes big open faces, and I know it can't possibly be today. A check of the pier proves this. It is smaller, weaker, and there are only about five guys in the water. I call Karen and Bruce, and we decide to wait for the tide to drop so the waves might break better. I go over to their house again, hang out, and we load up the bikes. We ride out to the pier, and see some little peelers. It's not gone yet, but it looks nothing like yesterday. We paddle out on the south side, and it takes much effort to get excited - because it will be more work for less action! It is already getting crowded, and I notice how many more girls are surfing these days. It seems that one third of the people in the water today are females. Yesterday, I only saw a few, but today, a lot paddled out. It used to be that I was the odd one in a sea of guys, and Karen says the same. I remember when I first started surfing in 1969, and couldn't get any of my friends interested. It has finally changed. I never thought it would take as long as it did. Karen and I catch a lot of fun ones, despite the smaller size, and I feel loose and catch some good lefts. But after three hours, I suddenly hit a wall. I just feel dead, like I can't even catch a wave in. I think maybe a fin has fallen off my board, it is that bad. Finally, Karen gets her last one and I trail after her. It was fun. Thank you Bertha. That was probably one of the best hurricane swells that I can remember...
No comments:
Post a Comment