We took off by boat at dawn, headed for a new surf spot. Although it was a playful, forgiving wave, it still seemed pretty big and a tad intimidating to me. This place is called Playgrounds. The swell was holding in size, and there was more than enough to go around today. Overhead sets unloaded like Trestles on a cobblestone reef, shorter bowling rights and longer walled up lefts! The trick, for me, was just getting the guts to drop in on some of the bigger set waves. My first wave was like a dream. It was powerful, peeling off in the sun, and I turned off the top again and again, racing past sections I didn't think I would make, but did. The lefts were amazing, wedging up and tapering off down the line. But, I kept getting stuck in the impact zone, and got worked again and again. One time a macking set torn the leash right off my leg, and I knew then that it was as big as I thought it was. Tony L, raced in to save my board from the rocks, and I met him on the shore, thanking him profusely. I was exhausted from the swim, but when I turned around and looked at the lineup, the blue-green walls reeling off in the sun, I looked at Tony and said, "There's no way I am sitting here for even a minute. Just look at this!" He smiled, and we paddled back out, laughing. This began my most fun session yet. My mindset changed from doubt to charge mode! I caught wave after glorious wave, hardly believing I had been afraid. Four hours later, I was climbing up the side of the boat and thinking of just one thing: FOOD! Back at the camp, it was Fish Chimichangas, beans, rice, and fruit juice. Pure heaven. Afterwards, as I lay in the hammock, Tony R. (or "Inside Tony," as he will be called from now on due to his habit of hanging out in the inside of the break), came out to tell me that he had decided that he should not get the new room that he had decided he would get because it had been determined that he was the loudest snorer. He said I should take it, that it was selfish of him, that he should sleep with James and Greg - not me. This is where I saw another side of Tony. I knew he wanted that room, that he hadn't slept and wanted his own space, but he was giving it to me. He wouldn't take no for an answer. I finally gave up, and moved in. Greg protested, which I loved, saying he wanted me to stay and Tony to move out! Ha ha. Afterwards, we decided to go surf the rivermouth again. It was clean and empty at first, and we all caught some fun ones. But, soon some guys paddled out, and the vibe in the water changed. They seemed so quiet, their faces somber. Tony L. learned that they just had $2,000 - $3,000 worth of stuff stolen. DIgital cameras and money. I felt so sorry for them. Later, Kelly would say that it is never a surprise. Nicaragua is the second poorest nation in the western hemisphere, just under Haiti. What would we do if we were them? They see us, driving around in four-wheel drive vehicles with AC, surfboards in the back, and they must surely think, "They are rich gringos, they can buy more stuff." It isn't right, but neither is their situation. We leave nothing on the beach, nothing in view in the car. I could not live in Nicaragua. I could not drive by, look at the poverty all around, and go about my life. It is hard enough just doing this without feeling guilty. So, we surfed until dark. Tony R. and I laughed at our ridiculous manuvers made possible by the extreme rising tide. Up on the beach, James surprised me by telling me that I was his hero, that I had caught so many good waves. He said I caught six waves to his one. That made my day, right then and there. Back at camp, Broccoli Alfredo was waiting, and surprise! Brownie Sundaes! We are fortunate individuals, indeed.
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