To the Point!

While the horrifying scene in this bottom photograph was being played out at the pier, I was far down the beach getting the longest tube ride of my life that was similar to the top photo taken yesterday at the Point. I never would have believed it could happen on a marginal day of leftover swell, but thanks to Bruce and Karen for letting me borrow the beach cruiser and the luck of a canceled surf lesson and, well, it happened. Karen didn't want to make the trek down to the point for her least favorite type waves that crash hard close to shore, so I ended up going alone. Bob wanted to go, but it was his birthday, and a beach day had already been arranged by those closest to him. I could hear it in his voice when I told him I was going. He knew I was going to score. I'm sure it wasn't as good as yesterday, from the looks of the photos, but it was the best surf I have had since that Saturday when Bertha was around. Riding that beach cruiser down to the point shows me why people seem so amazed when you say you only did 30 miles on the roadbike. That was the first time I have been on a beach cruiser for any length of time, and that 5 miles or however far it was down there and back was an endurance run. Riding that thing with deflated tires at high tide was a feat in itself. But, as I rode, I could see the waves might just do their thing and make it all worth it. When I got there, no one was even out yet at 9am. I knew I was a little early. The tide wouldn't be high until 10:47am. I took my time getting ready, but then DANG, look at that right peeling off! I got out there and caught a few, checking my watch, knowing it was just going to get better and better. I surfed alone for about half an hour before I saw two guys ride up on bikes with boards. They paddled out to the north of me, and slowly edged their way closer. The west wind was grooming the waves to perfection. Then, at 10:03am (I had just checked my watch), this wall presented itself before me, the biggest set wave yet, and I was in perfect position. It was almost too easy. I hardly even paddled for it. It just came to me. I almost thought I might miss it because all I had to do was pop my board, as I heard them whistle and hoot, and I thought for sure that it all would psyche me out enough to miss it. But, it picked me up as it jacked up, and when I stood, I was right in the pocket, slightly crouching inside it, watching this wall just ledge up in front of me. I starting pumping, it was peeling perfectly, fast and clean and open, and I hit the lip and cut all the way around, dropping back into the pocket for a little cover up before I stepped off into shallow water. WHAT WAS THAT? That wave was worth the whole bike ride to get there, I said to myself, smiling. I thought I wouldn't get another wave like that, but little did I know what was coming. I had a long paddle back out after that one, and I watched as one of the guys caught a good right, pulled in, and almost made it out. Then I noticed a boat coming closer. More people. Two guys jumped off the boat and paddled into the line-up, but there was enough for everyone. It was so great to be back in waves that broke fast and hollow again! Then it happened. I saw this nice one over to the right, and I paddled furiously to get in position. I took off a tad late, and I thought, as I pulled into the tube, "I won't make it." I was looking out, could see someone looking down the line into it at me, and I thought, just go for it, pull up high and stay in it for as long as you can. Well, I did, and I could feel the hollow vortex swirling all around me, and... I kept going... and going. I just held my line by instinct and nearly started laughing because it just kept going. It was almost ridiculous how long it felt like I was in there. And then ... I came out! I couldn't believe it. Where is Dave with the camera when you need him? No one will believe me...