Monday, July 14, 2008

the kingdom of the light offshore

I went over to Oahu for a few days to see a friend who was there for a surf contest. We surfed intensly every day at the Ala Moana breaks.
This is the view from the condo he rented (well actually from the fire exit... the condo wasn't quite as ocean front!).






The quality and size of the waves were so much better than Maui's south shore. I knew that already, but it was still a big surprise. It's the kingdom of the light offshore wind. I'm sure that when it blows over 25 it gets blown out over there too, but we got four perfect days in a row.






Surfing in front of the skyscrapers of a big city is weird. At first I didn't like it, "it would look better with some green hills" I thought. But then I had to admit that it had a special feel (and they must act as a wind shield too!).
Wait a moment, what's going on... that weird wave is coming from the beach!!!


Optical illusion... here's the lineup getting ready to duck dive... love this photo!


And when the sunset came for the first time...
Oh my god, what a trip. Believe it or not, even the skyscrapers change color at sunset and it gets increasingly surreal until it gets dark and... they turn the lights on! The almost full moon was out and we ended all evening sessions very, very late.





Even going left (that'll be east, away from the rising moon) was fine, because the face of the wave was reflecting the light of the town. Unreal.
If I lived over there I would surf mostly at night...

Despite the age, big belly and speedo, this guy had a great seventy's style...


Sure, it was crowded. Sure in the weekend it was very crowded. But no bad energy in the water. The level of the surfers was pretty high (I guess the beginners have plenty other breaks in front of Waikiki) and most of the times respectful of the priority rules. Plenty bikinis too.







Here's a few more pics.






Back in Maui I went to the south shore to check the waves. I looked at them and I didn't even go out... what a difference... what a difference!
Allright, let's see how long it takes me to get used again... no complaints, no problem, I'm still happy...

PS. Sorry for the consistently blue sky in the photos... annoying, uh?

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