Karma happens

The thing I want to remember about today is this. Matanzas. I was in the impact zone, after catching a good one. Andy had just caught one of the biggest set waves, took off really late, and it catapulted him out and way down. I was still smiling, listening as someone had a good time with this as he paddled back out, laughing. I looked over to the right to see this guy dropping in on a really good right. There it went, looping right over him as he barely crouched inside it. It was beautiful, seeing him come out after being inside so deep that he was looking out. Then another great wave came, and some other guy just went straight up to the lip and surged around and back again right in front of me, with that big green wall all backlit and tapering down the line waiting for more. The guy looked so relaxed and confident. It was pure art. Then, another wave was behind this one, and it was the same thing with another great surfer. I had been used to seeing longboarders all morning just standing there, or else people doing nothing on the blank canvases, so to see these three guys in a row just do it right, well, it was the best moment, almost as good as riding the waves. I said almost. It was gorgeous out there today, big and glassy, and if I hadn't been so exhausted from the last two days I would have had a lot more waves than I did. Karen caught a beauty. Andy was cheering her on! Bob went way out the back, and of course, I heard about that later and how much bigger it was out there. I had thought about going out there, but it looked so far away, and my arms were so tired from paddling against the current. When I finally left, hours later, I looked back at the swells pouring in, and felt like it was a crime to leave. But, I had nothing left. My arms were over it. My shoulders and neck ached. Andy was up on the beach, and he was in the same condition. Just beat. We had so much fun on Friday! He scored the best waves all three days, was in the right place at the right time every single day. Just goes to show you. Karma happens.