Saturday, September 6, 2008

south swell and the best duck dive photo ever!



The shot above is unreal. It's her first duck dive and her hair is still dry. I really love this shot...

Anyway, the south swell hit Friday (when it was supposed to) and it was a lot of fun in the sun. This guy would agree.


This is out of a sequence of four major top turns that is in the slide below and I probably missed the first three or four... that's why that is one of my favorite waves in Maui (not telling the name not even under torture, otherwise they'll give me shit...).
Too bad there were 40+ people out... not really a secret spot, uh?


Completely different wave (clearly a right). About to get barreled.


Getting worked.


Fully covered with no way out.
They call this wave the world's fastest makeble right. I call it the world's slowest close out...


It's Saturday morning and the swell is still pumping. Unfortunately I'm in a really bad paddling form (last time I surfed was in Oahu around mid July) and yesterday two sessions wore me out. Let's see what I can do today...

I'll leave you with the slide show. If it stops, click on the X in the top right corner to make it start again.


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Lil' Saturday afternoon update. Went surfing again in the morning and sailing in the afternoon... if I was worn out this morning, you can imagine how I feel now!
Here's argentinian Juanma in a beautiful shove-it. Also notice Glenn's new blue Fire.

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