Friday, November 28, 2008

Waves at long last...






How it happened was nothing short of a miracle, really. The planets aligned in my favor this time. I had to be at the bakery at 6:30am, and was relieved when I heard the waves were small and the tide was high. There lurked a small glimmer of hope, maybe there would be at least a rideable wave when I finished up mid-morning? Maybe. I got home to find Colby ready to go to the beach. Part of the miracle was the wind was offshore from the southwest, and it was warming up so much that he had the windows and doors open. I was getting the nervous twitters, excitement brewing, maybe the tide had dropped just enough to make it rideable by now? He rode the bike, I took the car. When I walked over the overlook and looked out, I could see distinct lines, and green water, beautiful green, not the murk of late. A wave crested and began to break. Andy was on the cell with me at that moment, and I was telling him it just might be worth leaving work. He was on his way, he said. I called Karen. Bob, too. They had all left messages about how they had been checking of the surf all morning for naught. Now, it was time. And, for once, I was there! I paddled out, no one even in the lineup. The day was sparkling clear, not a cloud, perfect light offshore winds. How could this be real? I caught a few small ones before one guy paddled out near me. Then I looked to see Colby on the beach! I paddled in to say hi. He had his camera, and was going to record the day. Josh paddled out after about an hour of it, and the other guy left. How could it be that waves this fun were being shared by just us? Karen arrived, then Andy. It was so much fun, surfing with just us! Andy had a screaming left, and Karen had one really good right that she was squealing over. What fun! Despite the water feeling so cold on my feet, the sun felt so warm. What a gift. This day was so unexpected.

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