By the time 8am rolled around this morning, I felt like I had lived a lifetime. Up before the dawn, I had everything organized and ready so no moment would be lost or wasted. I had everything packed and planned out. I stopped at Dunkin' Donuts for a hot chocolate to warm up, and felt someone tap me on the shoulder. Erock was there smiling, on his way to work, and there I was standing in line with my fullsuit on looking like a freak. The lady behind the counter asked it I was going scuba diving! When I told her surfing, she said good for you, and asked if I wasn't afraid of sharks. I am more afraid of driving on US1, I said. Once at the Overlook, I knew I was in luck. No one out, with glassy green walls filing in and light offshore winds! I paddled out like a fiend. I had it to myself for about twenty minutes before I heard, "Nance!" as I am riding a wave. It was Bob, and we were so stoked to be surfing alone and in such fun stuff, we were just out of our minds. We shared waves, hooting and laughing. We missed the biggest one of the day, a real beauty. It broke too far outside, and just threw out, with Bob closer and me way inside having caught one just before it. When I got in, Andy called, and I told him to get out there! He did, and left a message later, telling me he caught a barrel! It was such a gorgeous day. I debated about calling in sick, was tortured beyond belief, but I kept thinking of all I had to do at work and did the mature thing. It turned out to be the right thing, because it turned onshore by around 9am. Plus, the high I was on all day was passed on to the kids. No less than three little boys told me they wished I was their mom today. And, I told Mike about the waves this morning, and how he should get out there (and he did). When I saw him in the afternoon, he had a new surfing magazine for me, a thank you for getting him to go out. He had the same stoked smile as me. Yes, A very good day...
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