A Goodbye Gift...

The five day break ended with a gift. At about 2:30pm Andy called, on his way to Crossovers. The wind was OFFSHORE! Colby and I were so busy, I hadn't even noticed or thought it might happen. I thought surfing was over for the next few days. I had cleaned out the car, and put my board away. Then Bob was on the line, and then Karen, and we were all waiting to hear the report from Andy. Crossovers wasn't happening. But it all came together about 4pm. I ran down the rocks, and started walking toward the pier when I heard them yelling my name. There they were, Andy and Karen. Andy had been out already and was walking back up the beach, due to the drift, when he had seen Karen. He was so pumped up. I could see him describing a wave he'd had. We all paddled out together, and you could see right away it was breaking really good and hollow. Karen paddled way outside, while the drift pulled Andy and I right down to the pier. Along the way we had some fun! Once we got on the north side of the pier, a silly peak roared up that no one got, but Andy was hooting at it as it threw out and over. It was so much fun, and not as cold as yesterday's dawn patrol to the point. That had been quite the adventure, riding down there in the soft sand. It wasn't classic point, but it was fun. It was fun hanging out on the beach, getting ready to paddle out. It was fun talking out in the water with Steve Borema. We talked about how far he has come since those lost days when he was twenty and hanging out at the shop talking to me hours on end... It's always more fun surfing with your friends. Today the waves were better, for sure. Every single wave I had felt right, the board solid and great under my feet. It only further cemented into my mind how really great that 6'2" David Hamilton shape is! Now, it's back to work...