This is my favorite clip of the series. I just love the way Matt pulls that screen and gives the rails the shape he wants...
We're not done yet, stay tuned for more.
In the meantime, I need to report about an outstanding session I just had with my 6.10 Kazuma that you just saw in the video. The new NW swell is picking up quite quickly. The NW buoy reads 12 feet, 15 seconds at 9am... that means that in the afternoon, most spots will be unrideble.
Instead, I timed it right and scored early morning head to overhead high perfectly peeling lefts with light offshore and just three other guys out. At the first double overhead set, I wisely decided to quit...
Absolutely stoked! Can't believe I was able to stick those steep drops...
Now a little rest (and a little post) and maybe later I'll go explore some outer reefs with the standup... what a life!
A look at the forecast. Today's weather map shows one more impressive fetch. That is going to be the most west of the three swells and that is actually a good thing, since some spots in Kahului hopefully won't be too big. Will be here Thursday and Friday. A sporadic light trades episode might even make it sailable on Friday.
If you read this from an island of French Polinesia, Fiji, Tahiti or anywhere else down there, get ready for an unusually big swell on your north shores...
PS. Crazy conditions at Sunset beach. I just watched Rodrigo Dornellas dropping in a bomb that looked like five or six times overhead... he got a 9.43 for that!
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