Magic Morning

There were so many reasons not to go. The bed felt so cozy and warm. Waffles sounded nice. Waffles, and the paper, and staying in bed awhile longer, yes. NO! Must paddle out, no matter what. No more waiting for perfection that never comes. So, out I go. Ugh. Foggy out. I hate fog. Keep going! I drive out in the darkness to the beach, all misty, and the sun is not even up yet. I get to Crossovers. No one in the parking lot. I don't even look at it. I just get my board and go. Miracles happen, yes they do. I paddled out into some of the best waves I have ridden in months. No one out except me, in the near darkness. Gradually, the light fills in and I see just how good it really is. I watch one wave just throw out and over and hoot into the morning air. My first one was a good one, but the second one, wow. It lurched up way outside. I had to scramble to get it. It was overhead and glassy and just wide open. The board just went everywhere, as if on its own accord. I rode it almost all the way to the sand, cutbacks, off the tops, it felt like flying! Then there was this left, just begging for it. I was stoked out of my mind. And no one ever even came. By the time the sun came up, I was gone, off to work. My toes were getting cold, anyway, I told myself, to ease the pain of leaving. Plus, the tide was filling in. Later, Bob would say I had the best of the entire day. Let's hear it for leaving the comfort zone!