Wednesday, December 17, 2008

Magic Morning - Take 2


What's better than catching Crossovers, early morning, with fun surf? Surfing it with your friends! Andy was right behind me as I pulled into the foggy parking lot at 6:30am. Bob was just around the corner. I paddled out first, out into the fog, without a clue as to how the waves were. Once out there, you could see it was less consistent than yesterday, but more clean! I was so far outside at first. I heard Andy yell, "Hey! What are you doing out there?" "I'll show you what I'm doing!" I yelled back, ready to catch one and spray him on the inside. Soon, Bob came out and you could hear him hooting at one he saw rifling off on the inside. This turned out to be one of the best days. We had so much fun. One wave reared up way outside and Bob and I scratched to catch it. He went right and I went left. The thing just lurched up and I went right out into space on a crazy late take-off that Bob would tell Karen later I would be living the rest of my life. It was so awesome to reconnect at the bottom and have the wall just stand up in front of me. I was hooting and laughing the whole time. Just hilarious, we were out there. Andy caught one right that I watched him drop into late, and he just flew all over the place, a big grin plastered on his face. As I paddled back out, I saw Bob drop in on a bowly right and just go up, smack! and back down again, so nice. No one ever even came out. We scored. Then the tide started to fill in, and we paddled inside and I caught a fun, fun right to end my morning session. After I left, Andy did, too. Bob said as soon as we both left the fog rolled in, the waves stopped, and it was all over, just like that.

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