Saturday, December 27, 2008

Can this really be December?


At 5am the buoys had ticked up from three feet to four. By 6am, they had gone back to three. What? But, when I paddled out with Karen, Andy, and Mark this morning, it seemed like the surf had indeed come up a bit. The fog was gone this morning, and the sun came out. It wasn't perfect, but the lumpy waves were oil glass, and I was surfing with my friends. We had a blast, laughing when Andy got the royal flush and the zipper of his wetsuit unzipped to let in that not so warm water. He said he felt like the Michelin man, with his suit all filled with water, and it looked like he had rolls of fat from head to toe. Hilarious. Karen got a bunch of good ones today, despite what she might say. Mark was getting a lot of good ones on his fish. I had one that slapped me right in the head. Andy was laughing when I paddled back out, and it was even funnier because I had the feeling like I had just caught the wave of the day. It walled up so nice, and was one of the bigger ones, but as I was just pulling up to try to get inside it, it jacked up and out and just slapped me in the head. I said, "HEY!" and just kept on riding, laughing all the way inside. And, how crazy is all this warm weather? Maybe this is Hanukkah, because it seems we have been unwrapping gifts for days on end...

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