Ingredients for fun: Low tide, seas 4.6 feet at eleven seconds, no crowd, me and Vreeland at Crossovers. What? You mean it is happening again? I was the first out, and then I heard Bob saying, "You are so core!" Really, it's called having to be at work by 8am. We were amazed at how it was so good AGAIN. Bob said, "What if you could bottle this, this feeling of riding good waves, so people could experience what they never have?" I said, "No way! We don't need more people surfing!" With that, Bob's good karma gave him a set wave that peeled all the way to the beach, while I watched, smiling. We had so much fun this morning, trading waves, and my last one was my best, just peeling off in the pink sunrise. Then, right after work, Andy was calling. "I'm sitting here in the parking lot of FA's, and it's freakin' glassy and going off!" Minutes later we were in the water surfing the pier, in yet another epic session of glassy reeling waves. We stayed out until dark, watching the sky turn all shades of orange and pink, and realized, again, how very lucky we are.
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