Magic Morning - Take 4 and ... Magic Afternoon Take 2

How can this be? Four days in a row of quality surf!? We are all actually tired now. When we finally left the beach today, I could not believe Bob said it. He actually hoped the waves would drop tomorrow, so we wouldn't have to put our bodies through the motions AGAIN. Whaaa? But, I was feeling the same way. By my last hour, late this afternoon, I was reduced to surfing absolutely silly. I had depleted whatever reserves I had. I felt like I would have to crawl onto the beach, I was that tired. But how could I leave? Every time I started to think about going in, I would see another beautiful wave pitch out and over in the sparkling sun. And, it was WARM! I was doing Cirque De Soleil Manuvers that were hilarious, so tired I could barely get to my feet. The bike ride alone, to and from The Point, in soft, high tide sand, was enough make a grown man whimper. And Bob did, every time we hit those soft patches that stopped us dead in our tracks. How can we ever thank Bruce and Karen enough for letting us borrow their bikes? They even gave us oranges and power bars to take on our journey. I think a Mexican dinner is in store for them. It all started at sunrise when Crossovers was so good, again, that I had to call in sick. I had a sore throat, so I wasn't lying. There was no way I could leave this behind today. Bob, Andy, and I shared it with one other longboarder. What fun we had, reliving another epic day of rolling, peeling, glassy lines. None of us could believe it, five feet and eleven seconds, again. Wow. Merry Christmas to us! When I finally went in, it was because the tide came up and the crowd hit. I only had one hour to rest back home before Bob called to say, "IT IS STILL OFFSHORE, LET'S GO!" The Point was dreamlike to me today. That hour right before high tide, it all came together for me. I had just been watching and waiting, unable to find the spot, paddling back and forth, frantically, waveless. Bob was looking frazzled after getting pitched on a big one. Then it happened. I caught about six in a row of lurching, heaving ones that put the Firewire to the test. Stalling for the tube is the best ever, and if you were in the spot today, there was no need to do much except pick your line and go. I will never forget the one that I just popped my board on, one of the bigger ones. When I came onto the beach, David came up to me, smiling, darn near excited, to say he had shot a few good ones of me, he thought. Wow. Then Bob and I just stood watching it all, eating all we could find, too exhausted to paddle one more stroke. We just marveled at everything, the fleecy white clouds drifting slowly by overhead, the green walls crashing and peeling off in the sunshine, the warmth and beauty of another amazing day...