It's F-F-F-F-F-F-February...

In my dream last night, I was paddling out into some fun surf, but on some type of board that wasn't really a surfboard. It was more like a hybrid snowboard, and it didn't have a fin. I realized later this morning that this dream was an apt metaphor for so many things that are going on right now. So, in the dream, much like life, I am anxious, the waves are good, and I am on this weird piece of crap without a fin, and I am sinking fast. I am doubting myself big time. Yes, a metaphor. So, I see this one wave, it's a good one, and I paddle for it. Suddenly, I am flying all over the place, doing these huge roundhouse cutbacks, sweeping turns, beyond what I could ever really do. I didn't want it to end. I woke up, startled, I could never do that in real life, but it felt so real. I grabbed the weather cube, and listened. Light southwest winds, but the seas had dropped to two feet at eight seconds. Air temps were 44 degrees, water 56. Ouch. I decided I had to paddle out anyway, just to get in the ocean again. I pulled on my fullsuit and put on the booties, just to seal the deal. Once I saw the ocean, my heart did a little twitter. It was as clean as it could ever be. The waves were small. but the water was crystal green. Once I was at the top of the overlook, I knew I was going to be rewarded. Glassy lines were peeling off, just to the left of the overlook. Look at those! I am so out there. I race back to get my board, it is all mine! No one ever even checked it. The whole time I was out there, I never saw a soul. The only people I saw were two runners on the beach, and two guys with their hunting dogs in the parking lot on my way out. I just could not believe it. It was wave after wave, beautiful mini-peelers. I even found some tubes out there. Unbelievable. I was just grinning in the sunshine, while blowing warm air into my hands to keep them warm. It seemed like it was getting bigger as time went on. One set caught me completely off guard. I thought I was far enough outside when I saw it coming. I thought I could just pop my board for a no paddle take off, ha! It just dumped me like a rag doll. It was just ridiculous how much fun it was out there this morning. And to think I may have not even gone, since the reports all made it sound like nothing.