
It's all fodder to make it easier to leave this place, I suppose. WInter is bad anywhere, depending on how you look at it, but when I think about how long it has been since we had a good day of surf around here, it really makes me wonder why I am even here at all. When you love surfing as much as I do ... well, the dream I had last night made me realize that it goes deep, and waking up from that dream, that Andy had called to say the waves were great at the same moment that I realized I had missed it and the sun was setting, well, that's a metaphor if there ever was one. So, with my measly hour that I had in between my two jobs, I paddled out into the small green surf, thinking I could make something good out of it. Turns out it was really a complete waste of time. Every wave I had closed out on me as soon as I got to my feet. There seemed to be a message in this somewhere. But, while I am hard-headed like my dad always told me, the sun is rising on a new day.
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