Surfing teaches you so much. When I pulled up to the pier this morning, my jaw dropped because it actually looked pretty good. I didn't expect what I saw. Glassy swells were pouring in about every ten minutes, green, distinct lines, about chest high, with no one out. Well, sure, it was 45 degrees and the water was 55, but it was sunny, with just a breath of light offshore wind. I was out there in five minutes. Right away, I could see it was bigger than it looked, and I started feeling the anxiety of knowing I had to be at work by ten. The tide was dropping, would it just get better and better? Turns out I got the best of the day. That magic hour between 7:45 and 8:45 was when everything came together. I had so many waves that were like that dream I had the other night. The waves just peeled and bowled so beautifully. And, it was all there, happening right in front of me - and in the time I had.
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