All it takes is one wave...

I was high all day because of one wave. I was dying inside all day, too, because the wind was offshore for most of it until I got off work. It started with the use of the last of my pathetic cards, which I now have used up and have no others. I told them I had to have blood work done for my annual physical (true). The place opens at 6:30am, but you never know how long the line will be. Fortunately for me, it was almost out to the sidewalk, so this was a truth that bought me some extra time. You see, I was there at 6:30am, and the sun was bright enough to surf by 7am, about the time I got out. I grabbed a bagel, raced to the pier, and was the first one out. The waves were glassy and fun, shoulder high, the winds off shore (see photo), and I paddled out on the new 6'2". I caught a few that proved that I was not wrong about this board. It is magic. But the best was just waiting to happen. Guys started coming out one by one (more Flagler college guys, mostly). Then one bigger set wave wedged up right where I was sitting. I turned and paddled, and WHOMP! The whole thing threw out and over me, so I could look out the almond eye and see this guy paddling out just watching, hooting. I stayed with it as it crashed over me, and miracles sometimes happen and... whoosh, out I came, and on my feet! Wow, was I happy. I sat there, smiling, just vibrating from it all. Then the tide started getting higher, the crowd grew more annoyingly, and I figured I should go in and do my job. All day I was in the best mood. Even when Sherry needed me to come in and make the cupcakes, and everyone else around me seemed gloomy, I had some sunshine inside, just remembering looking out of that little barrel this morning, the fog covering everything...