Joy

I broke down and traded in the Xanadu yesterday. With winter's approach, I knew I would need a little more board underneath me, and having only the 5'10" potato chip would limit my fun. So, I picked up a 6'2" David Hamilton shape, and I must say, I think this man is a genius. I mean, the 6'10" he shaped, that I got recently, was amazing enough from the first wave. But, today when I paddled out on the new 6'2" before sunrise, it told me a lot. The first ride on this board was magic. The wave was a bouncy left, and the looseness of the board was such a ... surprise. But, the drive was what I was really looking for, and it sure had that. After work this afternoon, I was foaming at the mouth to get out there again. The winds were light, the sky was clear, and I was glad my cell phone was on the fritz so no message to get into work to make cupcakes got through. I went straight to Crossovers, ran across A1A, and jumped right into the water. My first wave was ... FUN. I kept catching wave after wave, it was like I had the board wired from the first moment. It was meant to be beneath my feet. But, all too soon all these Flagler College guys paddled out, with their funny and too cool conversations. I must admit they had me smiling. But, it's not so easy to catch waves in the middle of about fifteen twenty year olds. I sat outside them, and caught some really good ones, but soon I was pushed so far out to stay away from them that I finally gave up after two hours. It was getting late, anyway. What a great decision to get that board. It was one I had agonized over, and now it all seems so ridiculous. So much was simply waiting there, so much ... joy.