Sunday, October 12, 2008

October's here... what happened?


October is traditionally one of the best months in Florida for surfing. So, here we are, almost half way through it, with nothing more than dismal wind chop. In desperation, I paddled out this morning. The forecast is calling for increasing winds all week, so I had to do it. Even though the wind was onshore today, it is only going to get worse. Just one wave is all you need, sometimes, to make things seem okay. Well, today wasn't proof of that. I paddled out in the grey murk, telling myself I just needed one. I saw some that looked rideable as I paddled, but quickly my illusions were dispelled. The first one was alright, nothing much but a drop and a closeout. The next was bigger, and I made the drop only to be knocked off my feet by the ensuing blast as the heaving mass hit the sudden and shallow sandbar. Then I noticed something. Fish were jumping everywhere. The water was so murky I thought they might be gasping for air. Then another thought occurred to me, and it was the correct one. SHARK! Just ten yards in front of me, a school of fish were flying up into the air as a sleek grey mass surged forward. I saw the tail fin and gulped. That was no dolphin. That was the real thing. Should I paddle in? No, just remain calm and watch. As fish darted everywhere, I remembered the rule. If you paddle, paddle deliberately and smoothy. I did that for another couple waves and then said goodbye to it for the day. If it had been better, I would have stayed out, but it wasn't worth the risk of bleeding to death on the empty beach today.

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