Another Fine Day

For once, can you believe it, the pier was breaking ... even tubing?

It was so cold when I hit the beach this morning. There I was, the only surfer in sight, running to change into my wetsuit in the public restroom because to put it on at home would jinx me. There they were, chest high green waves coming in, groomed by the WNW wind. It was freezing outside, but today I brought the booties. I called Karen and said, "Get out here fast!" There was not a surfer in sight. I yanked on the wetsuit as fast as I could, so afraid the wind would change any moment and ruin everything. I paddled out, not believing my eyes. Clean, green waves peeled off in the sun. There was a tubing right in front of the walkway, and I raced out towards it. It felt so much warmer with those booties. I knew I would have about an hour before the shaking would begin, so I furiously went after anything that moved. One right was so gorgeous, it swelled up so nice with the perfect shoulder. I dropped in, looking out of the almond eye, popped out the other side and the stoke was back! There was this one left I remember that just peeled off in the sun... The Dominator flew.

Soon there were about five of us out, but there were plenty of waves for everyone. I saw Karen get one nice right! After a couple hours, the tide seemed to drop enough that I began to wonder about Crossovers. I was getting cold. 50 degree air and 58 degree water start to wear on you when that chilly wind begins to blow. I reasoned that I would warm up on the drive to north beach, and headed in.

Over on that side, the waves looked a tad smaller, with no one out. At first it seemed a mistake. It seemed longer inbetween sets, and I sat around waiting for a set for what felt like an eternity. Soon enough, it started happening, and some pretty good lefts came in. Two guys paddled out, and then the right started working. Tom Coates paddled out and asked me, "Which way to Hawaii?" as we complained about the cold. He said his son was up on the beach taking photos, they were taking turns. Finally a really good right came in, and then a nice left that made the trip worthwhile. But, after a while the cold just became too much. It began to feel like I was semi-paralyzed, and all I wanted was a hot shower. I hate winter. I could have stayed for hours if I hadn't been so cold...

The forecast calls for a bitter cold January, with loads of polar cold fronts - and only brief moments of warmth in between. Nooooo.