I was talking with Tom today about this place. I think he summed it up pretty well. At the very least it would explain my feeling over the past two days that I can't surf, and that every wave I take feels like an imitation of something that leaves me feeling listless and uninspired. He said he is over this place and its crap sandbars. He said that the next day he is off we are going to load up his car and head an hour south to Ponce Inlet. He said he has been going there, and that you step into the water and it covers your feet, and then your ankles (are you following this?), and proceeds in an orderly fashion. Here, you step into the water and drop off into a trench up to your neck and then hit a six inch deep patch of water for six feet and then drop off into another trench.
No wonder that today, when I surfed with Andy and Mark, it felt exactly like that to me. I mean, I kept thinking, is it this damn full suit that makes me feel like there is no oomph to my takeoffs? I get to my feet and then ... bog, or the wave shuts down, explodes in a close out, or just transforms into a fat, and shapeless shoulder! Over and over, yesterday and today. And, I know it's not just me. I haven't seen anything lately (except for one semi-wave Andy had, and one semi-left that Mark rode today), that even resembles a good wave.
I just want a wall that stands up and lets me ride! Is that too much to ask when you live on an ocean? I am sick of this! It is making me feel down about surfing here. Every winter it hits me like this, but this seems like the worst yet.
I dream ... of warm water, and real waves...
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