
Today was dentist day. Crown at 11am. This enabled me to swing some surf time. I left work at 9am. Andy waited until I could go, and also to let the tide drop. I got one group of kids done, and hit the door running. I raced out to Andy's ramp, and there we scored a fun, fun session. I wore my spring suit and was quite comfortable.
Of course, as soon as I got to the beach the wind stopped blowing offshore, and I nearly had a meltdown. Andy said, no, it's okay, it looks fun! So I booked it to his ramp, and there, to my surprise, it was oil glass, shoulder high peelers. Everywhere else hadn't looked nearly as good. Some of the bigger sets had us yelling our heads off. They were rolling and pitching in the sun.
It was such sweet torture only having one hour in which to savor it.
We each caught some fun ones, with only a couple other guys out. Andy filled me in on what I had missed yesterday while I worked. Seems like he was the only one that really had fun. Mark couldn't even get out his second go around. Bob hadn't sounded especially stoked, but he is always kind when he knows I have missed good waves. Now I will have time, once Friday is here. Christmas holiday begins then, and I am not working that bakery, no way! You know what that means, don't you? Flat spell on the way. Either that, or relentless onshore winds - or bitter cold. You watch...
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