Saturday dawned clear and calm. My plane leaves at 11am. I am in the water by dawn in the best waves I have ever scored at Gisborne! It was the biggest yet, and I got out in 5 minutes, because this time - I watched the locals. It's Saturday, so I had guys to surf with! One nice Maori guy paddled past me with a friendly, "Good morning!" and then turned to drop into an overhead left that had my heart in my throat. I looked back to see the back of the wave as big as the waves I rode the faces of yesterday. Then I saw this huge fan of water as he smacked it! It took me a few to get the guts to drop in, since I hadn't been in waves like this since Hurricane Bill. The green heaving peaks would just jack up and pitch out with a beautiful spray of white water in the bright clear blue sky! This is what I came for. This was like something out of a magazine.
My first one was a good right that peaked up and had a taper to it, just perfect. The Dominator felt so tiny, it I felt like I was skipping across the face, but it held in. Then I caught a left that felt so steep that at first I was a bit hesitant, but I just went. That thing was so perfect and smooth and fast... and I came flying out the back of it, my toes on the deck, just barely, and touched down to see a macking set coming at me! This was an adrenalin morning, for sure. I am so glad there were about six other guys out with me.
So, just when I had given up, it all came around. I scored the magic morning! Never give up, never.
Of course, when I came in, Wayne was calmly having his coffee, and smiling at how excited I was. "Now THIS is what I'm talking about!" I said, grinning from ear to ear. "How is this on a scale of one to ten?" I had to ask.
"I'd say about at three or four," he said, surveying it, as a guy dropped into an overhead green left and got covered up. "WHAT?" I said. "This would be our biggest and best day of the whole year!" I told him. "Really?" he said, empathetically. "Really!" I said, "Get out there!"
He just smiled and said, "Oh, I will. After I drop you off at the airport, the tide will be filling in and I will be picking the eyes out of it." To which I replied, "I hate you. I hate you!!!"
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