Saved by a surf...

Today was a rough one at work. Most everyone knows now. It kind of feels like what it must feel like when you have a terminal illness. I suppose it's the way people look at you, with that mix of sadness and empathy. But then, I am so dramatic, and see things based on my mood at any given moment...

But, I will get through it, and so many people had the coolest things to say to me today. I found out how some people think of me, things that I never knew, about the job I do. I found out that not knowing what will happen next can be alternately scary and exciting. Nothing is forever, and nothing is for sure. That's the theme for this day.

So, after work the offshores were still blowing, and the sky was brilliantly blue. My zombiesque demeanor needed a good dunking in the sea.

I drove to Matanzas again, with the tide on the rise.

When I got there, not a surfer was in sight. I walked to the overlook and I could see it looked small. Oh, heck. I decided to just go, just paddle around, and hope to catch something.

By the time I got back with my board, I noticed the sandbar had really been defined. The waves were looking better, and wrapping on the triangular point of sand quite nicely. Maybe it would be worth it after all.

It turned out to be more fun than it looked. I even skinned it at first, it was so warm out. I kept getting these wrapping, peeling little rights that had surprising push for as small as it was. It was a 13 second period swell, and those seconds make all the difference, don't they?

When I got that dry barrel, and was looking out the almond eye as the crystal lip threw over me, I knew I had made a good choice to drive down here today. Soon Andy was paddling out on the placebo, and we had some fun! He had one wave that stands out in my mind. He took off left, and then did this stylish sweeping turn back around, his board bright white, his feet positioned perfectly on the deck of his board. I wish I could have a picture of it. I don't know why it seemed so extraordinarily beautiful, that relaxed stance, the clean face of the wave, all under that blue, blue sky...

Then Mark paddled out, and it was just us three the entire late afternoon into evening. We couldn't believe our luck. With beach driving now banned, it makes it harder to get out here. We could not be happier. We all came in at the same time when the tide seemed to get a bit too fat. Mark helped Andy carry the eleven footer he had lugged down just in case. The lighting was just astounding this afternoon, the air so clear. As I watched them walking, carrying the surfboards, even this seemed full of some magical beauty. Why? I don't know. There was just something about the light today...