
My welcome back to St. Augustine included many great things. Seeing friends again! The kids hugging me! But, today was the first day I had off since rushing back to work on Monday, and what luck! Offshore winds and water warming, seas three feet at eight seconds... let's go surfing!
Andy's first wave today showed me that you can travel far and wide and find paradise in your own back yard.
As if I haven't learned that once or twice already.
Andy and I met at the boat ramp just after dawn. We headed for the inlet on the jet ski, under a perfectly clear sky, with light westerlies, and thank you, yes, it was warm, warm, warm. The water is not biting anymore. I wore my 2 mm full short sleeve, just in case. After an hour, I was wishing I had worn less.
Okay, it will be called "The Lange Factor," from here on out. What is it with that guy? He paddles out, gets the best wave while we all sit watching, and then, when he decides to paddle back to the jet ski for snack, the waves quit. What? It's The Lange Factor. Some things just can't be explained.
So, how happy was I today? I told Andy, "I can't believe it! We are off, there are waves, and it is offshore!"
We were the first ones out and, at first, it seemed rather soft and small. That's what she said.
Then, as the tide gradually filled in, the waves got better and better. About ten other people eventually made their way out. There were two jet skis, one boat, and about 3 or 4 guys on bikes. What fun! I kept looking at my watch. Time was flying. I wanted this to last. Andy kept getting wave after wave, I was barely keeping up with him. One good left I had was so amazing and perfectly shaped all the way in. When I got inside, a guy was grinning and said, "That was a great wave!" "This is so much fun," I said. He was shaking his head in agreement, as we both paddled back out, stoked. Just beautiful, glassy, some were tubing, and I still see this one guy dropping in and pulling up high and tight to get covered up and then coming out and into a great cutback and back onto a speeding wall of green!
By around 10:30am, it was over. The wind began to turn more southerly and picked up. As we loaded up to leave, Chuck rode over on his ski to say hi. Every one of us had smiles on our faces.
Spring is here, the trees are becoming more green with each passing moment, and I wish it would never end...
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