
The wind was temporarily light offshore, the seas three feet at ten seconds. The air was warm.
The swell had turned from the south to the north overnight, so I went to Crossovers after breakfast. There was no rush. The tide was dropping. The sky was clear.
At Crossovers, the tide was still too high for the little swell to break right. But the water was gorgeous, clear, and green. The swell was only maybe waist high, but there was something to ride. And, it was Saturday.
I told Andy and Karen I would check the pier, and so I left.
At the pier it was a little less lined up, more crumbly, and looked a tad smaller. Oh, well, the water was warm, green, and glassy - and it was Saturday. I paddled out, and soon there was Andy and Karen. We had fun, catching the little glassy peaks, soft and easy. The fisherman complained to the guys that got a little too close. Andy told them the fish were UNDER the pier. They yelled from above, in alpha dog mode. We just laughed.
After a bit of that, I left to check the wash through at Matanzas. I knew the overlook on the south side wouldn't be that great with the low tide, but something told me to check that little sandbar on the north side. I'm glad I did.
I saw Bob's car in the parking lot at Matanzas, and took a detour. After all, if he was here it must be rideable. But, after a walk out there, and then way out to the spit of land to the south, I didn't see him. I didn't even consider that it might be him out there where I saw some longboards. Bob hates longboards. Although, since he saw Dave Rastovich riding one this week, he seems to be changing his position on it. He has been trying to make me get rid of my 6'10" forever. Anyway, turns out it was him out there, teaching little Katie and Amanda to surf.
I took off for the wash through, after passing Summer Haven with its parking lot full of cars. Down there, at the end of the road, I saw a little right peeling off in the sunshine. No one was even out. I kept watching it, and wondering why. Soon enough, I was climbing down the path, and saw two longboarders about to enter the water when I came around the rocks.
They stayed off to the side, and for a solid hour I had it all to myself. The rights were crystal green and more ruler edged, and for a brief moment in time I was in heaven. I thought about getting out to call Andy and Karen, but knew that it would be too late, as the wind would ruin it by the time they arrived. I was right. After an hour, everything began to change, and the wind ruffled up the perfect little moment. It was okay. the sun was so high in the sky, and I could feel the sun beating down on my sun beat skin.
Oh, why does it always seem to end so soon?
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