Sunday, May 16, 2010

Whaaaa?


How can it be that all the reports called it smaller today, and all the buoy reports were smaller, too, and yet when Andy and I were out there surfing on the south side at the pier ... it seemed twice the size of yesterday? The waves were more defined, and I know I was not imagining this, because Andy said the same thing. I was miffed because I thought for sure the waves would be marginal at best, and so I brought the 6'10" out of hiding. It felt like an anchor was attached to the tail, so sluggish and slow moving, compared to the Dominator. Oh, the inhumanity! But, I would never have caught some of them at the higher tide on the 5'6", so it was just as well, I suppose. We had fun, more fun than yesterday's crap.

Bonus: As I was getting ready to leave, up trotted Josh Cabana! We hadn't seen each other in years. I miss the talks we used to have. I remember when he worked at the shop, when he was just a kid, and how he had saved the day once when I had reached the end of my rope with an annoying customer. He turned on his charm and was so mature that day. Now he is a father. I wished I had stayed out in the water longer today, so we could have surfed together. I hope it isn't years before we talk again.

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