
The swell seemed a little more organized today. It was a bit bigger, too. I drove to the pier, but the tide was too fat. Still, you could see some promise. Plus, the wind wind had just turned light offshore
I went to Matanzas, and walked out to the overlook. There were some little green lines, but the tide was going out, and I knew it wasn't the optimal place. Over at Summer Haven, one guy was out to the right where the sandbar bends. That looked okay. A drive to the end of the road proved fruitless. The tide was still too high there, too. I drove back to the cliff, where Brokeback Brian was calling out to me, so I stopped. He had been on the paddle board all morning. He had fun, he said. I looked over at that right, and decided that it was the best thing I had seen.
Once out, it was a bit disappointing. The tide was funky, and the water was not that pretty. But, as the tide dropped, it got better. A lot of people paddled out, mostly all longboards. Andy showed up with the eleven footer. Things got more interesting as time passed. We noticed that on the inside, there was a really fun section, where it would wedge up and peel off, which was good for fun sweepy cutbacks and racing the sections. We had some good ones for what lasted all of about a half hour.
Andy was tired from yesterday's car overhaul on the new found jeep, so he went in. I stayed out for a bit longer, until it seemed like it was changing and losing that fun section. It was only ten o'clock, so I decided to check 8th street on the way home.
That turned out to be a good call. It was a bit crowded, but I sat way outside, and caught the bigger peaks that rolled through. This was the day that I really felt like I was one with the Dominator. It was so much fun! It just felt like it was an extension of me, and would turn on a dime and fly like a bird, which made for fun cutbacks and off the tops all the way to shore. If you look closely at the photo, you may notice the empty peak popping up outside. No one wanted to wait for them, I guess, but to me they were well worth the wait. I stayed out until nearly noon. The sun became too much by then. I didn't want to go, but any more time in the sun and I would surely pay with my leather hide, burnt and dried like beef jerky.
It was worth it today!
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